tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20403979006044121022024-03-27T02:37:59.000-04:00MRX DesignsA repository of creations by a developing artisan.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.comBlogger230125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-26509560808213823272022-06-10T06:04:00.000-04:002022-06-10T06:04:38.357-04:00Totally Cherry<p><span> </span><span> </span> It has been more than two years since I have made something- like, actually made something, not just modified or laser etched it, but actually crafted it with my hands from scratch. The <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2021/06/rogue-cthulhu-dice-box.html" target="_blank">Rogue Cthulhu dice boxes</a> were probably the last thing I really made. </p><p><span> </span><span> </span>Not gonna lie, things have been rough. Rogue Cthulhu has been retired. My gaming days have come to an end. Book of Shadows, my store, has been shut down. The building was badly vandalized and it did not make economic sense to make the repairs needed to stay open. My mental health continues to struggle. I can go weeks without leaving the house or even getting dressed. So, at this stage, for me to make something is a major achievement. But, I sold a rune set on Etsy today, and I think that gave me a little spark of energy. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissKjytY57WIYbvBANMFfXpnR_5K-Qnh4_cYsPyKYMNYWDhxC_PkSzuPCTil7Nq_fH_ecIgSAUe-ZmVSq5q2g4ZLksiVDwYJoNYoRIi-hpEH2YJdB1GN1uAxiWNkFZM_RrSSSx5EWHSZ42mMXk18-9Iy5PuJuEGM58fBkKa1giBTXuXfw9Mb0ucqDxsQ/s4032/IMG_20220610_052529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissKjytY57WIYbvBANMFfXpnR_5K-Qnh4_cYsPyKYMNYWDhxC_PkSzuPCTil7Nq_fH_ecIgSAUe-ZmVSq5q2g4ZLksiVDwYJoNYoRIi-hpEH2YJdB1GN1uAxiWNkFZM_RrSSSx5EWHSZ42mMXk18-9Iy5PuJuEGM58fBkKa1giBTXuXfw9Mb0ucqDxsQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220610_052529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><span> </span><span> </span>It's not quite finished yet, but it's close. This is a hand turned wand made from locally sourced cherry wood that I seasoned and milled myself. There is going to be a crystal point embedded into the tip (where the hole is), but other than that, it is done. I was a little surprised that the piece came together with little difficulty. This is probably the first time I have touched my lathe in three years. It isn't perfect, but considering how out of practice I am, it's pretty good.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSnES3sclwt7hzUm4KHXIvj7dzyKQsPxfvrhvCs2qBgfULhgrIXWnENvaTY88whgIeS3Nb9ydHDvGTHnGhxD4vJpWfjQXKFgD2WDw55AmxEsYUg-SU81iWK2gnZw3h7ndzPcK0KTpLi7qHwz-ZAi-ZlQDvWLFGq3GK8q7_afBL2LAf-li4v-9-1zhPA/s4032/IMG_20220610_052431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSnES3sclwt7hzUm4KHXIvj7dzyKQsPxfvrhvCs2qBgfULhgrIXWnENvaTY88whgIeS3Nb9ydHDvGTHnGhxD4vJpWfjQXKFgD2WDw55AmxEsYUg-SU81iWK2gnZw3h7ndzPcK0KTpLi7qHwz-ZAi-ZlQDvWLFGq3GK8q7_afBL2LAf-li4v-9-1zhPA/w640-h480/IMG_20220610_052431.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf99_CGpWB5MzkhU69JQO_IXNJFgv2UbBlqtlhDub1oYjYKILn2XU0TNC1Zfa6bIooqCk75TT3XBRPczbXnO6Qo4PtuZCVtsOI0eG_zjPTAqHdbqifsmbxEc3J6HRj4OQp0fyFatFo3P43knTBq6SHmefBVTDvwzww7rdN3rLfMysNLhmrX3-_0DAlLw/s4032/IMG_20220610_052352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf99_CGpWB5MzkhU69JQO_IXNJFgv2UbBlqtlhDub1oYjYKILn2XU0TNC1Zfa6bIooqCk75TT3XBRPczbXnO6Qo4PtuZCVtsOI0eG_zjPTAqHdbqifsmbxEc3J6HRj4OQp0fyFatFo3P43knTBq6SHmefBVTDvwzww7rdN3rLfMysNLhmrX3-_0DAlLw/w640-h480/IMG_20220610_052352.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2c8BBvuZCcvY5SX9pA3h5TCCI-69pF5dH7dyoJXFCBT5iK7RfPCxFh9Vu5zEl4s1zEPF5oRzXQ1U-nLfFGHJlK3_uG3LHy-WvCgKeJBUnsU_juBuh0kyOfZv1-WwV9Gy1F3GiGOmSb-NDpf4LCXUbICbYuQ7XiXesSrM446csMWV0pXVcjM3h1QUENA/s4032/IMG_20220610_052515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2c8BBvuZCcvY5SX9pA3h5TCCI-69pF5dH7dyoJXFCBT5iK7RfPCxFh9Vu5zEl4s1zEPF5oRzXQ1U-nLfFGHJlK3_uG3LHy-WvCgKeJBUnsU_juBuh0kyOfZv1-WwV9Gy1F3GiGOmSb-NDpf4LCXUbICbYuQ7XiXesSrM446csMWV0pXVcjM3h1QUENA/w640-h480/IMG_20220610_052515.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><span> </span><span> </span>I love this batch of wood. The color is very pleasing. Even the sapwood is nice. I've got quite a bit of it, so I expect I'll be doing a lot of projects in cherry in the future. Now that the store is closed, I'm going to have to focus more on online sales in order to have any income. My needs are small, but I've been bleeding money for the past two years, so it's either make internet sales, or get a straight job, and I'm a little too old and jaded for that! </p><p><span> </span><span> I have a couple more wands that I started years ago, and got them to about this same point and never finished them. I think I'll try to make a couple more, and then add the tips to all of them at once and post them in a batch. I was just so excited to have accomplished something in the workshop that I had to post it, finished or not. </span><br /></p><p><span> P.S. I'm not dead yet. </span><br /></p>Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-87709283890826061592021-06-02T21:46:00.000-04:002021-06-02T21:46:18.727-04:00Rogue Cthulhu Dice Box<p> Just a few months before COVID shut down all gaming conventions all over the world, I regained control of Rogue Cthulhu, the gaming club I co-founded over 20 years ago. In those few months between Thanksgiving 2019 and when the world shut down in March 2020, I was hard at work trying to prepare for the next Rogue Cthulhu show at the Origins Gaming Convention. One of my areas of focus was to re-establish the prize table and point system that had been dismantled while I was away from the helm. </p><p>This is one of the prizes that I was working on at that time. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of its construction. It's a portable dice rolling box, with a side area for storing and transporting your gaming dice. The lid slides open like a pencil box top. The sides of the box are oak. The top and divider are sapele. The bottom is lined with bonded leather. The sides and top are all laser etched. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxU8weYQWH-t_tp1C5NgE6cOskVfCtrY832VOb2jaJwXChFC3iEhaD-uZPgLekcSIYR14TMwkxiOT7TNkfjExRI1YW5ZpNRarcFM9dXgGbN10jzgHwN1D1DYnU18kQfTElaFSeHdHjxAxj/s1920/USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1580485685707.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxU8weYQWH-t_tp1C5NgE6cOskVfCtrY832VOb2jaJwXChFC3iEhaD-uZPgLekcSIYR14TMwkxiOT7TNkfjExRI1YW5ZpNRarcFM9dXgGbN10jzgHwN1D1DYnU18kQfTElaFSeHdHjxAxj/w640-h360/USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1580485685707.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I'm not sure if or when Rogue Cthulhu might return to the gaming convention scene, but if it does, I will probably make more of these. I initially only made two, and since the future of the club is currently uncertain, I think I'm going to give these two away to some friends. <br /></p>Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-57787194376788515152021-02-03T12:03:00.000-05:002021-02-03T12:03:50.667-05:00Memento Mori<p> So, 2020 happened. That was a thing. As I'm sure it was for all of us, it was a particularly hard year for me. At the end of March, just before COVID-19 took over all of our lives, my mother passed away unexpectedly. There is some confusion about how exactly she passed, and I'm not convinced that COVID did not play a part, but testing was not being done at that time. She went into the hospital to get treated for <a href="https://www.healthline.com/health/rhabdomyolysis" target="_blank">rhabdomyolysi</a>s. She had been complaining of muscle pain and weakness in her legs for weeks and my daughter, who is a pharmacy student, discovered that she was taking two different <a href="https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/high-blood-cholesterol/in-depth/statin-side-effects/art-20046013" target="_blank">statins</a> (something you should never do). Mom went to the ER and it was confirmed that she had <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5853001/" target="_blank">statin induced rhabdo</a>. She spent several weeks in the hospital being treated, and was on the mend. I visited with her every day back then, and we could see the COVID hysteria ramping up around us. At that time, there was only one confirmed COVID patient in our city (and not in our hospital). After her treatment concluded, she was transferred to an off-site facility to complete her recovery and to begin physical therapy. The critical part should have been over at that point. When she was moved to the physical rehabilitation facility, COVID had become the hot topic of every day. The shut-down was beginning in our area. I was not allowed to visit her while she was in the new facility. She wasn't allowed to have visitors at all. She would remain there for several weeks, and we would communicate by phone or text. I would never see her alive again. </p><p>Things seemed to be improving. She could get to the bathroom by herself now. Then, she called me one night out of the blue saying that she thought she was dying. Something was wrong. Her blood oxygen level was very low. She made some very bizarre remarks that made it seem like she might be having a psychotic episode. The doctors at the facility did not seem alarmed, and did not provide much information about her condition, nor did they seem to take the situation very seriously. The next morning they did decide to send her back to the ER. She barely made it through the doors of the Emergency Room before she coded. They could not resuscitate her. </p><p>She was not allowed to have calling hours because of COVID. We have a large close knit family, and I had to chose a maximum of ten people to be at her graveside for the funeral. <br /></p><p>My mother's passing is the primary reason that I have done almost nothing in the past year. I have been completely overwhelmed with her death, funeral, and estate. It is almost a year later, and I haven't really begun to grieve. </p><p>But wait, there's more...</p><p>Due to COVID lock-down,<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/10/shop-book-of-shadows.html" target="_blank"> my store</a> was closed through most of the Winter and Spring. We did finally re-open again in June (three months later than we would have). My store clerk, Toni, has health problems of her own. She is the same age as my mom, and can barely walk from her car to the front door without resting. Her doctor didn't want her working at all in June, but she was eager to get back to work for financial reasons. So we started out only opening on weekends, and putting reasonably strict COVID prevention measures in place. No more than 4 people in the shop at a time, no children, masks required, frequent surface and hand sanitization. Despite the very late start, and the economy being in the tank, we actually had a pretty good year, financially. </p><p>Then, in very early December, Toni got sick. Now, it's common for her to get bronchitis once or twice (or thrice) a year, especially when the weather turns cold, so we all hoped for the best, but there was always that fear looming over my shoulder that it could be something much worse. She spent a couple of weeks at home, but her condition did not improve. I told her she should go to the hospital, and that I wasn't going to let her come back to work without a negative COVID test. She dickered around for a few days, and then she finally went in to get tested. She was positive for COVID.</p><p>I held out hope, but all of her friends suspected that it was going to end badly. Toni stayed in the hospital for a couple of weeks. I took care of her cats while she was away. Then I got the DM from Toni's daughter that she had been called by the doctors to come up to the hospital (she lives in another state). Toni died just minutes before her daughter arrived in the room. It was the day after Winter Solstice. The shortest day of the longest year of my life. <br /></p><p>Toni was like a second mother to me. I had known her since I was six years old. She ran <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/10/shop-book-of-shadows.html" target="_blank">my shop</a> for me for the past ten or so years. Her daughter and I grew up together. To say that I feel more alone now than I have ever felt in my life is an understatement. <br /></p><p>Which brings me to the subject of this post. Unlike my mother, who would have absolutely hated the fact that she couldn't have her family at her funeral, Toni was a very private person who didn't want anyone to know she was sick. She didn't want a funeral, or an obituary, or a memorial service. Her daughter had her remains cremated and plans to bury the ashes in secret in a place her mother would have liked. The only remembrance she will get is the small memorial table I have set up for her at the shop, for which I created this memorial book that friends and patrons can use to leave her a final farewell. It is one of the only things I have made in the past year.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-TLAlbKyltLBIUfqYQ7MLLjUtsOTPCMos9IW2e6OIVP3QUs5VFUOBeX3WUb12k_J_A1qnB3SKPrEqxobIJtxHp7hhwUbw6m73zidy-zYfQZu-SvSLcZHd0ZYpBQ4XKlSHmLAac5ww2Ri/s4032/IMG_20210101_101029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-TLAlbKyltLBIUfqYQ7MLLjUtsOTPCMos9IW2e6OIVP3QUs5VFUOBeX3WUb12k_J_A1qnB3SKPrEqxobIJtxHp7hhwUbw6m73zidy-zYfQZu-SvSLcZHd0ZYpBQ4XKlSHmLAac5ww2Ri/w640-h480/IMG_20210101_101029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibuj6vuv4GvTJFdy3TIVp69ugUIURjOc7JCV18DoiTdgE5URw0HuHtLwggk-VdOJ-qXCF18E2vcRhOJjdK3NJVwKO0HZgYE5qO0L7kYihKxorHRnh6aouGA40W4nDK1g9CDll-qK-qrb1y/s4032/IMG_20210101_101043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibuj6vuv4GvTJFdy3TIVp69ugUIURjOc7JCV18DoiTdgE5URw0HuHtLwggk-VdOJ-qXCF18E2vcRhOJjdK3NJVwKO0HZgYE5qO0L7kYihKxorHRnh6aouGA40W4nDK1g9CDll-qK-qrb1y/w640-h480/IMG_20210101_101043.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3GJjkGHW7xINkUjdjKyTaQ566p_sR4TH41AVTksdUvVbr8Tia4D_TZAahmf5u3GUzgexfkVexjdXa9D5qAfjemzPMjHnBeMlg4-TxNR365WIFa06cDzqa2lltPRyvc7LoQXBKIyBn2uS/s4032/IMG_20210108_180726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3GJjkGHW7xINkUjdjKyTaQ566p_sR4TH41AVTksdUvVbr8Tia4D_TZAahmf5u3GUzgexfkVexjdXa9D5qAfjemzPMjHnBeMlg4-TxNR365WIFa06cDzqa2lltPRyvc7LoQXBKIyBn2uS/w640-h480/IMG_20210108_180726.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The book itself was just a fake moleskin covered blank journal I found at a discount store. The images are ones she would have liked, gleaned from the internet. I etched the covers with my laser cutter. </p><p>Memento Mori is a Latin phrase that means- "Remenber, that someday you too will die." Since my mother's passing almost a year ago, I have thought about little else.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-81869588000194476852020-01-13T12:44:00.000-05:002020-01-13T12:45:49.777-05:00Key Fobs v1.0I recently returned to the leadership position of my old gaming club,<a href="http://www.roguecthulhu.com/" target="_blank"> Rogue Cthulhu</a> and due to changes in policy during the four years I was away, our once vaunted prize table now has to be rebuilt from scratch. So, first I made a list of reasonably simple and inexpensive craft items I could make to begin rebuilding our stock of prizes. We often get gifts of larger prizes, like RPG books, as prize support from publishers connected to the games we run, so what we mostly need is smaller prizes that work with our point chip system.<br />
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The first such project that I thought of was a line of laser engraved wooden key fobs with various Cthulhu Mythos related images on one side and the Rogue Cthulhu logo on the other. I mean, after all, what good is having a laser cutter if you can't use it to make prizes!<br />
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The design for the fobs was fairly simple and laid out in<a href="https://inkscape.org/" target="_blank"> Inkscape</a>. Then they were cut and engraved, double sided, on the <a href="https://glowforge.com/" target="_blank">Glowforge</a> laser cutter out of 3mm birch plywood. I made about 60 of these in total. About half were left their natural color, while the rest were stained with varying hues of wood stain. All were sealed with a clear gloss top coat.<br />
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The metal split rings came from <a href="https://www.michaels.com/" target="_blank">Michaels</a>. The split rings were attached to the fobs with a 15mm x 75mm strip of bonded leather. Some are black and some are brown. I got the bonded leather in large rolls off of eBay some years ago. The strips were glued into a loop connecting the fob and the ring, using Barge cement, and then a nickle finish double cap rivet was used to cinch the loop.<br />
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The engraving and cutting took about 45 minutes per side for each batch of 20. The staining and top coating probably took about an hour total. Cutting, gluing and riveting the bonded leather loops probably took about an hour and a half to do all sixty fobs.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-53955123222867011572019-09-20T21:12:00.000-04:002019-11-10T06:32:59.285-05:00Planchettes v1.6I have made about five batches of planchettes since I <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/08/planchette-v10.html" target="_blank">first posted about them</a>. This post is about batch #3, i.e. version 1.6. I'll try to keep it brief, because I just finished batch #4, i.e. version 2.0. <br />
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Version 1.6 was just like <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/09/planchettes-v15.html" target="_blank">version 1.5</a>, except they had laser engravings on the top surface. It was a medium sized batch of about 17 units. All were made from hardwood, though some were made from planks that I planed down to thickness, and some were made from thin (1/8") stock I usually use in my laser. The laser stock ones were too thin to put a glass oculus into, so only the ones I planed got that. The woods used were red oak (laser stock), spalted buckeye, and hickory. I didn't take many pictures of the production process, as most of it happened on the laser. Below are the planchettes hanging on a rack drying after being coated with either Danish oil or Tung oil finish. I can't remember which. <br />
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I did learn a few things from this experimental batch.<br />
First, although the laser stock wood will cut all the way through on the laser, it is really a little too thin to make a nice planchette, and definitely too thin to inset a glass oculus. The planed down boards on the other hand are a good thickness for drilling and insetting the glass, but even though they are technically under the maximum thickness for the laser, they are really too thick to cut through all the way by that method. In the future, I will likely just score the outer outline on the laser and do the rough cutting on the band saw and sand up to the line on the disk sander, like v1.0 and v1.5.<br />
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Second, due to possible alignment error when drilling out the center hole, I should mark the center of the hole with the laser by scoring a cross-hair, but NOT score the actual circle to be cut out. Any misalignment of the drill bit can cause the score line to be visible even after the hold is drilled.<br />
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Third, when using thin stock, orient the grain of the wood with the long axis of the planchette, or at a diagonal. Doing otherwise will create a weak point at the sides of the center hole, where the body is very narrow. <br />
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Here they are again, waiting for the next coat of finish.<br />
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This batch with the laser engraving was very popular both on my Etsy store and in my brick and mortar shop. All of my offerings in my Etsy shop are sold out and I only have two left in the brick and mortar store. You can mostly make out all of the designs in the picture above, but I only took glamor shots of the ones that were going to be sold online. So, here they are-<br />
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This was a smallish batch that was finished fairly quickly. It only took a couple of days from start to finish. Its main purpose was to test the idea of cutting out planchettes on the laser, and for engraving the tops with designs.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-27488045612706553992019-07-19T03:21:00.000-04:002019-07-21T14:32:12.152-04:00Walnut and Maple Mitered Boxes with Poplar Interior v1.0I've been itching to make some more boxes. I really liked the way my <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/10/splined-mitered-tarot-box-v10.html" target="_blank">pencil top boxes with ebony splines</a> came out. With the exception of the lids. Those were hard to fit properly. They ended up being a little too sloppy for my liking. So, I decided to try a different style of lid.<br />
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I also wanted to use some of the thin hardwood boards that I bought for my laser, because, well, they didn't need planed to thickness and because I had a large collection of them that was getting a bit out of hand. However, the thin boards were not thick enough to cut a rabbet or a dado into, so the top and bottom would need another way to attach. I always wanted to try the kind of box that has a second layer of wood that lines the interior, so that's what I went for. Usually those kinds of boxes have the interior panels stick up above the rim and the lid fits down over the lip created by the interior wall. This is how you make boxes that start off closed on the top and bottom, then you cut through the side to separate the top from the rest of the box. These boxes would not be like that. Instead, the interior wall would be shorter than the exterior sides of the box, and allow the bottom of the lid to set down inside. You'll see what I mean.<br />
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Walnut is my favorite wood (one of), so that's what I wanted to make the sides from. Walnut boards for my laser cost about $2 each, and poplar boards cost less than $1 each, so I decided to make the interior walls, the lid bottom, and box bottom out of poplar.<br />
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I cut side pieces from walnut, about 2.5" tall and 4.5" long. I cut enough to make five boxes. I planned to use box joints for the outer walls, and then precisely fitted butt joints on the interior walls. Unfortunately, I ran into a little trouble with<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2016/05/tools-of-trade.html" target="_blank"> my box joint jig</a>. It didn't want to cooperate. And though I had made<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2016/05/candle-boxes.html" target="_blank"> box joint boxes</a> with this jig before, today it was not happening. I ruined the ends of two (luckily only two) of the walnut boards before quitting in disgust and ordering an<a href="https://www.amazon.com/INCRA-I-BOX-Jig-Box-Joints/dp/B008LD4S5G?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2593935011" target="_blank"> INCRA I-Box jig</a> on Amazon. But that was going to take a week to arrive, and I didn't want to wait that long, so the next day I went back into the workshop and tried something else.<br />
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I decided to miter the corners, like I did with the pencil top box. But because these boards were much thinner, I was going to need a more delicate method of mitering the edges than the table saw. I was going to need a hand plane shooting board with a 45 degree "donkey-ear" attachment. <br />
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Unfortunately, do to the aggravating previous day, I wasn't in much of a mood to take pictures during the creation of the shooting board or the "donkey-ear". And frankly, it came together very fast and there isn't much too it. Suffice to say, it turned out rather well and seems to work pretty good. Might need some tweaking to make it more square, but it was good enough. Now I could use a hand plane to put very precise 45 degree miters on the ends of all the walnut boards. <br />
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I lined up the boards end to end, outer faces facing up, and made sure they were square against a straight edge. Then I put masking tape at each of the joints. The masking tape will serve as a clamp to hold all the sides tightly in place as the glue dries.<br />
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Then I flipped the boards over, exposing the mitered edges, and applied glue. <br />
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Once the glue was applied, I folded up the sides and stuck another piece of tape on the last edge to hold it in a box shape. I made a quick jig out of some scrap wood to hold the box sides square while the glue dried. My jig could hold two boxes square at a time. They only needed to be in it until the glue started to set up.<br />
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Next, I cut pieces of poplar to serve as the bottom of the box and for the interior walls of the box. I dialed in the size of each piece using the shooting board. But this time, I didn't use the "donkey-ear". The interior pieces have 90 degree flat ends and are fitted tightly in place with a butt joint. <br />
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The poplar interior walls are shorter than the exterior walls to create a rabbet on the bottom edge for the bottom panel, and a slightly larger rabbet at the top edge to accommodate the lid. After being dry fitted, I glued the interior walls to the walnut sides, and also put glue along the ends of the poplar boards to butt joint them together. This will reinforce the miter joint of the thin walnut exterior walls, since they won't be reinforced with splines. <br />
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The very first box I made got the bottom panel glued in at the same time as the sides, but I quickly realized this was a mistake. If I leave the bottom panel until last, it will be easier to position the interior lid panel when gluing it to the lid. Making sure that the lid fits on properly is very important to this design. So for the other boxes, I just used scrap pieces of poplar as spacers when gluing in the interior walls. The bottom would be added later. <br />
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The lids I cut out of maple, the same thickness as the other boards (approx. 0.180" thick). But these I cut out on the laser, and added a different design to each one. On some of them, I gave a quick coat of spray paint before I took off the masking tape from the laser process. This gave a nice dark color to the burned areas. <br />
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I made the lids just very slightly larger than the box perimeter. I figured it would be hard to get everything to fit perfectly, and a slight overhang (less than a millimeter) would be preferable to being undersized.<br />
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Oh. BTW, one of the boxes came out rectangular instead of square, because I decided to use the two boards that I had messed up with the box joint jig. I just cut off the bad end and mitered them a little shorter. No big deal. If I hadn't, I would have not only wasted the two messed up boards, but the other two sides as well, because I had the perfect number of cut pieces to make five boxes. <br />
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I cut poplar pieces for the lid interior, pretty much the exact same size as the box bottom, and dialed in the best fit I could with the shooting board (at 90 degrees). Then I used the box to help me line up the interior lid panel on the underside of the lid to get the best fit. I glued the poplar panel to the underside of the maple lid and held it down with weights. <b>This was a mistake</b>. It needed stronger and more even clamping pressure. Some of the panels started to curl as the glue dried. I fixed this by adding more glue to the widening joint at the edges and clamping all around with spring clamps. <br />
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I sanded all the exterior sides, with the random orbital sander, to 220 grit. The box bottoms needed more attention, as some of them were a little proud of the box sides and needed to be sanded flush. Then I put the first coat of finish on them; 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Poly (oil based), 1/3 mineral spirits. I let this soak in for about 15 minutes and then wiped off the excess. After letting them dry for 24 hours, I came back and sanded the sides lightly with a 220 sanding sponge.<br />
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I like the look of an oil rub finish, but there is a trap you can fall into. I call it the "2 coats or 10" trap. Your first two coats of an oil finish (like BLO or tung oil) will completely soak in and give you a matte oil finish. But if you want something with more gloss, you have to do more coats. Well, the next few coats will start to build up a more satin or gloss finish, but it will be patchy, because the wood absorbs the oil more in some areas. To get enough build up on the entire surface with no patchiness, you end up doing ten or more coats and waiting a day between each. That's a lot of tedious finishing time.<br />
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This time, I wanted to avoid that trap, but I still wanted more gloss than one or two oil coats can give. So, for the second coat, I tried a new finish that is popular with guitar and gun stock makers. It's called Tru-Oil. You just coat the surface and rub it in until it is all evenly coated and mostly absorbed, and let it dry for 24 hours. Re-coat as desired. It is an oil finish, that also builds up a varnish film finish as you apply coats. One coat of my BLO mixture and one coat of Tru-Oil gave me a satin finish that was not patchy. It could have probably benefited from another coat of Tru-Oil, but this looked good enough. I didn't put the Tru-Oil on the interior of the box. The BLO treatment would be good enough for that. <br />
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While I was waiting for the finish to dry, I decided to make a little card detailing when the item was made and from what materials. Sometimes I forget what kinds of wood I used on which projects, and it is always helpful when selling an item to be able to tell the customer what woods were used. So, I made a little card that will stay with the box, and remind the customer as well. I am going to try to do something like this to all my projects in the future. <br />
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I added my logo to the bottom of the box. I have a sheet of them printed out that I stained with tea some time ago. When I need one I use the water tearing technique to separate one from the sheet and glue it to the item with pva glue.<br />
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Lastly, I put some self adhesive cork pads on the bottom corners to serve as feet, in case the bottom of the box isn't perfectly flat. <br />
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<br />
And now, some glamour shots. <br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-33488343889400907942019-06-30T21:25:00.000-04:002019-09-20T21:12:32.096-04:00Planchettes-A-PlentyA few months back, I made two batches of wooden planchettes in an effort to use up some scrap wood. The first batch was only about four or five planchettes, with open holes. The second batch was maybe a dozen planchettes, about half of which got glass viewers inserted into the holes. Then I got kinda burnt out on making them, so I put the project aside and tried to sell the ones I had made, both in my Etsy store and in my shop.<br />
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Well, it took several months, but the Etsy store finally started gaining traction. I sold about ten or so planchettes through the Etsy store, and stock was starting to get pretty low, so I knew I would have to make another batch. Well... I think I may have over done it a bit.<br />
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This, my friends, is a stack of Ninety Four planchettes being rough cut from a variety of milled planks. Ninety - Four. And that is after I put one large sapele board back on the wood pile, and set aside two large planks from the stack I had milled for the project. I have no idea why I am making so many. It honestly didn't seem like it was going to be that many when I was picking out the wood for the project. I had to order more glass cabochons, and I still don't have enough. I'm going to have to order more still!<br />
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I think I may have to start thinking about making a line of ouija boards just to have any hopes of selling this many panchettes. <br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-49694820340018028362019-06-08T09:27:00.000-04:002019-07-05T07:53:16.823-04:001.5" Candle HolderAt my shop, we sell a line of pre-made spell candles that are 1.5" in diameter. These candles are hand made (not by me) and the bases are not perfectly flat. The odd diameter and the imperfect bottom make finding a holder for them a little challenging. To combat that problem, I have custom made some quick wooden block style holders designed especially for these candles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST3olyBojlKnWL1ic0YnEQR4zITk16ehJmHzQ30jlKPHfWLQNxqU4TlX-GyoDETjUkVwKQzVfVytbv0YpU9-xm_hsH_7zfzsIE4nt-vlTzUwPz7aNQjF7kh6r9_9EgTEye3ox7_UmAJp1/s1600/IMG_20190607_100739-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST3olyBojlKnWL1ic0YnEQR4zITk16ehJmHzQ30jlKPHfWLQNxqU4TlX-GyoDETjUkVwKQzVfVytbv0YpU9-xm_hsH_7zfzsIE4nt-vlTzUwPz7aNQjF7kh6r9_9EgTEye3ox7_UmAJp1/s640/IMG_20190607_100739-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cat's name is Luna ;)</td></tr>
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The holder is just a square block of solid walnut with rounded over edges and two holes drilled in it. I made the prototype batch of six holders in about an hour (not counting finish drying time).<br />
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I got walnut from the scrap bin at my favorite hardwood dealer. I just measured the width of the board and set a stop block to that same width to cut the blocks off at the chop saw. Then I found the center of the top and the front face. I used a 1.5" forstner bit to drill a hole in the top to accept the candle, and a 1-3/8" forstner bit to drill a shallow hole in the front face to accept a maple inlay cut on the laser (1.38" diameter, 0.18" thickness). The top and side edges were eased over with a 1/8" round over bit at the router table.<br />
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As it turns out, the little aluminum cups that tea lights come in fit perfectly into the top hole, and so that will protect the wood from the burning candle. Hopefully. Never leave a candle burning unattended, kids. Especially in a WOODEN candle holder!<br />
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The finishing was a bit of a hodge-podge. I started out using danish oil, but I didn't want to wait for multiple coats to dry, so after the first coat I switched to shellac. But even after two coats of shellac (and sanding in between) they didn't have a nice shine, so I then gave them a quick spray of clear lacquer from a rattle can. Maybe with the next batch I'll try just one or two coats of polyurethane. <br />
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UPDATE::<br />
So, these are just some production notes, mostly for my own benefit.<br />
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After finishing the prototype batch of six candle holders, I started a production run of about sixty. I had a small stack of walnut boards of the same dimension, so I decided to use them all up and make a big batch so I wouldn't need to make more for a while. Sixty is just a bit too much to work on in one batch. I found myself very tired and bored by the end of each step. Forty would have been a more managable batch size.<br />
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In the prototype batch, I only rounded the edges of the top and sides. In the production run I also rounded the bottom edges and around the top hole where the candle fits in. My router bit is starting to get dull, and I should have spent more time hand sanding these rounded over parts. They tend to snag the cloth when I am doing finishing.<br />
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One mistake I made that didn't become apparent until after the fact, was the order of operations. I drilled the top and face holes in the block before routing the edges, just like in the prototype batch. I discovered that the router bit wanted to dip into the front face hole, especially when rounding the bottom edge, which caused a noticeable divot in the edge. I should have marked the centers for the holes first (and definitely use an awl to make a divot for the drill bit to follow), then routed the edges, then drilled the holes, and then go back to the router to round over the edge of the top hole.<br />
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The sides were sanded to 500 grit on the disk sander. then I tried a new approach to finishing. I mixed 1/3 BLO, 1/3 oil based polyurethane and 1/3 mineral spirits. I dunked each part into a bath of the mixture and let it drip dry a few seconds before setting it out on a piece of cardboard. After about 15 minutes (about halfway through the batch) I wiped off the excess finish with a shop towel and set them to dry. Do NOT use the shop rags, they leave lint like crazy. Use paper towels or a blue shop towel.<br />
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After letting the finish cure for 24 hours, lightly sanded each face by dragging it two or three times over a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Not really sure if this step helped.<br />
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Then I repeated the oil bath finish a second time. I did not repeat the sanding after this second coat. I could have left them here. They looked nice, but had a satin finish. I wanted more gloss, so I decided to do a few coats of wipe-on poly. I probably should have just left them as-is, or maybe done one coat of spray top coat. After two coats of wipe-on poly, the finish was patchy. I'm hoping a third coat will be the end of it. [some of them were good after the third coat. some could have used one more, but I just polished them all with paste wax and made an end of it.]<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-23314181114961394722019-05-23T22:28:00.000-04:002019-05-23T22:28:48.224-04:00YouTube FamousHey everybody. I'm YouTube Famous now! Lol.<br />
All joking aside, I am very grateful to beloved YouTube woodworking content creator, Matt Cremona, for featuring one of my projects on his channel. About six months or so ago, I sent him some pictures of my <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/10/splined-mitered-tarot-box-v10.html" target="_blank">Tarot Box</a> project. At the end of his weekly shop update videos, he features several viewer projects. As he has over 250 thousand subscribers, you can guess that the queue for the viewer projects is pretty long.<br />
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The segment with my photos starts around 10:50 into the video, but I recommend you watch the whole thing, especially if you are into woodworking. Matt is a very popular YouTube woodworker, and his videos are very entertaining. I have been following his channel for over a year now, and I am never disappointed.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-55237044053049111502019-03-15T04:11:00.000-04:002019-03-15T04:11:05.096-04:00Laser Etched Mirror Altar TilesI think I posted already about the first one of these I made, and since these were done on the laser, there really isn't much to say about this project, so I'll just post a picture of the final pieces.<br />
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These are 8" beveled mirror trivets (candle holders?) purchased from Walmart. I used to make quite a few of these into customized altar tiles with acid paste etching, but using the laser I can get a much more complex image with much less work. The only down side is, the surface finish of the laser etched area is quite rough, unlike using the acid paste. But I could never get this kind of detail with a hand cut stencil, so it's a trade off. Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-82573698833545998702018-12-02T21:00:00.001-05:002018-12-02T21:00:43.292-05:00Book of Shadows Signage v3.0 (part 4)Well, it's been a year and a half since<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/06/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-3.html"> the last post about the new sign</a> for <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/10/shop-book-of-shadows.html">the store</a>, and over two years since I started making it, but the new sign has finally been installed at the store. Thanksgiving morning, 5am, I woke up and decided, "Today is the day"- and Voilà ! <br />
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I already posted about <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/05/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-2.html">the making of the main sign</a>, and <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/06/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-3.html">the making of the fretwork accent pieces</a>, so here I will just post about the installation and give you a few pics of the finished sign in situ.<br />
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Before I could install the sign, I had to re-face the marquee with some new plywood, as the old T1-11 was badly rotted. Ideally I should have ripped down the rotted T1-11 and replaced it, but with the building in as bad of shape as it is, I thought it better to just leave it and sheath over it with some fresh plywood.<br />
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Each piece of plywood was pre-cut (5ft tall) and pre-painted before going up on the marquee. They were given three coats of brown exterior house paint, on both sides, and I even used some <a href="https://www.zoro.com/dap-painters-acrylic-latex-caulk-101-oz-18670/i/G1557893/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQiAoo7gBRDuARIsANeJKUYZUVK5rR4nBIqaT1gZ7cF8nzmqpWtSy-7BVPyJaqLhtKkb1CRbAh0aAvmvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds">paintable siliconized acrylic caulking</a> around the edges of each board after the second coat. Hopefully, this will help keep water from deteriorating the plywood prematurely. Each panel was lifted up by hand, with the help of a ground man, and screwed to the marquee face with a <i>prodigious</i> amount of screws. I got as many as I could into the studs, and then just peppered the rest with screws, hoping I would hit something solid underneath. The last panel, on the right side in the picture, was about 2.5 inches too wide. But I was not about to take it down, trim it, reseal and repaint the cut edge and put it back up. It was a HUGE effort to get those panels in place. I am afraid of heights, so working on the porch roof was very difficult and stressful. It can just hang over the right edge by a couple of inches. No one will care. Most people won't even notice.<br />
<br />
Raising the panels in place and securing them was easy compared to the sign itself. The main sign is a full sheet of plywood, plus the weight of all the lettering attached to it. My ground man (Delvin is his name) and I muscled the sign up onto the porch roof and let it rest on some 2x4 blocks nailed to the porch roof, while I climbed back up onto the roof and then man-handled it up the rest of the way from there. It was a Herculean task, but by some miracle, I got it up there and rested the bottom edge on a pair of screws that were set into the marquee at the correct height for the bottom edge of the sign (this screw-ledge trick is also how I put the panels in place). After the sign was nudged into its final position, and a couple of screws driven in to secure it, I could remove the ledge-screws. Since the sign was being screwed into the fresh plywood facing, it didn't really matter if the screws went into the studs, but I tried to get some in the studs anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKp7z7q7bsCyCie8wp1aQPC-tJiRgMAVRjjx1haATh5x0TwA6qrRKOEj2RDT79HBKynqC1MO-5D-0ITNfL4J_2epq7zciAwEUtXXqYvJgWtOSvn9RklyLM833ldrneBUmH8eummWcoP11/s1600/IMG_20181125_164641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKp7z7q7bsCyCie8wp1aQPC-tJiRgMAVRjjx1haATh5x0TwA6qrRKOEj2RDT79HBKynqC1MO-5D-0ITNfL4J_2epq7zciAwEUtXXqYvJgWtOSvn9RklyLM833ldrneBUmH8eummWcoP11/s400/IMG_20181125_164641.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaI0zqFDnwH9KPi7cOu6Ew5V5WPwI-6mt2Y1UD9DvMut4qk1yhpLlIQfCsi6ryXWLSrLiLAjYjGTrqZX5sPvKbYVxztJxsH82K0pczVEDgsXhsevz4WGRaxTOsAsAVHrsGRFTMPYQKFBZi/s1600/IMG_20181125_164606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaI0zqFDnwH9KPi7cOu6Ew5V5WPwI-6mt2Y1UD9DvMut4qk1yhpLlIQfCsi6ryXWLSrLiLAjYjGTrqZX5sPvKbYVxztJxsH82K0pczVEDgsXhsevz4WGRaxTOsAsAVHrsGRFTMPYQKFBZi/s400/IMG_20181125_164606.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That damned backwards "a" still haunts me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So that was one day's work, just getting the panels and main sign up. Then I had to wait a few days for good weather until I could finish adding the decorative pieces that flank the sign.<br />
<br />
Before I could hang the fretwork pieces, I had to fabricate some brackets for them. I didn't want to drill through the copper facing (or even through the wood) so I cut some pieces of steel and drilled and countersunk holes for screws. I screwed the brackets onto the fret pieces from the back side, and then through the front side I could drive the screws in to attach it to the building. I painted the brackets brown so that they would blend in with the marquee and become invisible.<br />
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On the second day of hanging, I was all alone with no ground man. Luckily, the pieces I had to hang were much smaller and lighter. I just took my time and walked them up the ladder one piece at a time. I did have to get up and down the ladder a few times to make sure the fret pieces were straight. It's very hard to tell if something looks straight from up close like that, and measurements can only get you so far.<br />
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Only one last thing to hang- the 30" tall brass carriage lights. I bought these things from a flea market about eight years ago. I paid $1. For the pair. Seriously, <i>one dollar</i>. The finish was a bit worn and there was a little corrosion, but I cleaned them up as best as I could (without exerting too much effort) with some polishing compound. I tested that they worked before hanging them, but I'm not sure if I will be able to wire them up. In any event they needed some kind of bracket as well, since they will not be mounted to a gang box like they were designed to be.<br />
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The bracket I came up with was a little hacked together, but I was under a time crunch. They were made from 3/4" oak recycled shelving material. I designed them to have a hole in the back for the wires to poke through. Then, when I got them up on the roof, I drilled a 1" hole through the marquee for the wires to feed through. The plan is to wire them from the inside of the building after they are hung. This I can do any time and in any weather. Or not at all, if I never get around to it. In any event, the mounting bracket now gave me something to screw to the plywood on the marquee.<br />
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And that's just about it. For now anyway. There are two more details to be taken care of, but I wasn't going to delay this post any longer. I need to install some flashing along the top edge of the marquee to serve as a drip edge. There used to be some roll roofing that hung over it (you can still see remnants of it in the pics) but it had to be ripped down to put up the panels (and it was rotted). I bought some brown aluminum gutter that I plan to re-bend and hang upside-down over the front edge to serve as a flashing (and no, I don't plan on making another post just for that little finishing detail). And the other thing is to wire the lights (assuming that ever happens).<br />
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So, two and a half years in the making, and it is finally finished (90%, anyway). And I do like the way it looks. Hopefully, it will survive the weather for at least a few years. I'm certainly not looking forward to doing it again.<br />
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Here are a few more finished pics. The sun was going down and the front of the store was in shadow, so next chance I get I will take some pics with better light and add them to the end here.<br />
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See Also:<br />
<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/05/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-1.html" target="_blank">Book of Shadows Signage v3.0 (part 1)</a><br />
<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/05/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-2.html" target="_blank">Book of Shadows Signage v3.0 (part 2)</a><br />
<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/06/book-of-shadows-signage-v30-part-3.html" target="_blank">Book of Shadows Signage v3.0 (part 3)</a><br /><br />
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.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-70801525797014169102018-11-04T01:12:00.000-04:002018-11-04T01:12:18.158-04:00Smudge Fan v3.0To date, one of the most popular posts on this blog (and certainly <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/470274386086274825">on Pinterest</a>) is my first attempt at making<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/11/smudge-fans-v10.html"> a smudging fan</a>. And as I have previously stated, I hated that project. I only made that version of fan one time, and only made four of those fans total. Then I tried <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/10/smudge-fan-v20.html" target="_blank">a new design</a>, which was much simpler and I liked the finished product much better. I have made several dozen of the second iteration of smudging fan, and still use that design when making new fans. However, today I worked on a new design, or rather a variation of the second design, and it turned out fairly well.<br />
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This fan came about as a way to salvage a damaged feather, because I was too cheap to just throw it away. I prepared a batch of wild turkey feathers to be made into <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/10/smudge-fan-v20.html">v2.0</a> fans, by trimming the tips and inserting a bamboo skewer into the quill to give it strength. I then cut the skewer to the desired length of my handle. This makes it possible to get a decent handle of a consistent length, even if the quill is damaged, weak or short.<br />
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Normally, I would then just wrap the handle with suede leather lace, and add a few beads to the ends of the lace and call it done, but this time I decided to apply a new technique I had read about, wherein one uses a hot iron to flatten and straighten the feather. Here is where things went wrong. I set my iron too hot and it melted the vane on one side. It only melted part of it, and only about half-way up, but it made the feather pretty ugly and unusable. I was just about to throw it away when I got the idea to see if I could convincingly cover up the damaged part with another smaller feather.<br />
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I selected a couple of smaller wild turkey feathers to overlap the main feather on either side (thus covering up the damaged part of the vane). I held the shafts of the smaller feathers in place with a wooden clothes pin and used thick CA glue and spray activator to glue the shafts together. I didn't like the way the junction where the three feathers came together looked, so I covered it up with a small black marabou feather, also attached with CA glue.<br />
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I then began wrapping the handle with suede leather lace, making sure to cover over the joint where the shafts came together. I put a few dabs of CA glue under the leather in a few spots to make sure the wrapping didn't shift or come loose.<br />
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In the picture just above, you can see the damaged part of the main feather along the right side.<br />
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As I did with <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/10/smudge-fan-v20.html">v2.0</a>, I added some accent beads to the ends of the leather wrapping, and that was it. Not terribly complicated, or significantly more difficult to make, but a little fancier than v2.0. I might make a couple more of these and sell them at a premium (compared to the simpler v2.0), but it is unlikely they will replace v2.0 completely.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-21512547819633536982018-10-17T03:58:00.000-04:002018-10-17T04:06:08.149-04:00Splined Mitered Tarot Box v1.0Ugh- allergies. I have come to find that if I don't use a respirator when I'm doing wood working, even just a little bit, I will get an allergy attack. And now, I have runaway sinuses, because last night... I did a thing.<br />
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This is a tarot card box, with splined mitered corners and a pencil box sliding top. The sides are made from sapele. The top and bottom are soft maple, and the splines are black ebony.<br />
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It all stared with a piece of sapele. It looked pretty straight, but it rocked on the table a little bit, so I used a hand plane and a planer to take the small twist out. Truth be told, I probably caused more damage with the hand plane than I did good with it, but at least the twist was lessened. Next, I re-sawed the board on the band saw to split it in half.<br />
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Of course, then I had to run it through the planer again to smooth out the band saw marks. Once both sides of both pieces were nice and flat, and both pieces were the same thickness, I started cutting out the pieces for the sides of the box. There is a trick to the way you cut the pieces from the stock in order to create a continuous grain pattern all the way around the box. Oh, it's worth mentioning that this is the first time I've ever tried to make a box like this. Actually, it's only the second time I've ever tried to make a box at all. I made a few finger jointed <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2016/05/candle-boxes.html" target="_blank">candle boxes </a>when I first started getting into wood working.<br />
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So, this being the first time trying to do the whole continuous grain thing (or even the whole splined mitered box thing), it didn't quite go to plan. I must have misjudged the length of the sides, because when I got to the last piece, the remaining board wasn't long enough. I had planned to make one 4"x6"x4" box from each of the two book-matched boards. But I had to cut a piece from the second board to make up the shortfall. This means that three of the sides will have continuous grain, and the fourth will be mismatched. Luckily, sapele does not have a very pronounced grain pattern, so it won't be very noticeable. <br />
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The next step was to cut the 45 degree miters on each piece. There was some burning during the cut because the table saw blade was dull. I eventually changed it, but I should have done so sooner. I test fitted the four pieces together, and the miters came out pretty good, but I noticed that the box seemed really tall. I was kind of bummed that I wasn't going to get two boxes out of this piece of sapele, do to the fact that I had to take that fourth piece from the second half of the board, so I started thinking, maybe I can cut the height in half. That would give me two boxes that are only 2" tall. I wasn't sure if that would be enough height to be useful, but I was willing to give it a try, so I marked the half way line and cut it in half on the band saw. The table saw would have given me a straighter cut, but would have taken up an eighth of an inch in the kerf. I couldn't afford to loose that much height, so I cut very carefully on the band saw and sanded the sawn edge flat (which I then used as the bottom edge of the box).<br />
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I had originally planned to use a 3/16" dado for the lid and for the bottom of the box, but in order to save some of the height of the interior of the box, I decided that the bottom could be rabbeted in. This would save about 3/16" of interior height. I was using a 3/16" thick plank of soft maple for the lid and bottom, so I made two passes with the saw blade to create the rabbet, then cleaned it up with a chisel. The rabbet was made just a hair wider than the thickness of the bottom panel, so that the box would rest on the bottom edges, not on the bottom panel, and so I would have some edge to sand in order to true up the bottom later. <br />
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Then I needed to make one more cut to make the dado in which the lid would slide. This was also done with two passes of the table saw blade (which is nominally 1/8" thick). The first pass established the lid's distance down from the top of the box. The second pass widened the dado to fit the thickness of the lid panel.<br />
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The fourth side had to be cut a little differently. It didn't get a dado. It got cut off at the height of the dado, so the lid would slide out through this side, and not be captured by it. So, I cut this one last, and just raised the height of the blade while making the second pass to cut all the way through the piece.<br />
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Finally, it was time for glue-up. This is where it really started to look like the beginnings of a box. I laid the pieces end to end, using a square to make sure that the edge of the bottom rabbet of each piece was perfectly in line. Inconsistencies in top and bottom edges of the pieces could be sanded out later, but the rabbet and the dado needed to be perfectly in line at this stage. I connected the pieces with masking tape at the seams along what would be the outside of the box.<br />
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I put wood glue along all the mitered edges and rolled up the box ends, taping it shut. This method holds all the edges in perfect alignment, and the tape also acts as a clamp for the glue. Just use a square to make sure the corners are perfect, and give it a little squeeze in the right direction if they are not. No other clamping necessary.<br />
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While the glue was drying, I started working on the top and bottom panels. These I made from pre-sawn 3/16" thick planks of maple that I got from<a href="http://www.keimlumber.com/" target="_blank"> my favorite lumber store</a>, specifically because they are great for use<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/02/have-laser-will-leave-it-sitting-on.html" target="_blank"> in my laser cutter</a>. They got cut to rough size, then sanded, then covered with transfer tape (it's like masking tape) to prevent smoke staining. Then I worked up a design for the box tops in <a href="https://inkscape.org/en/" target="_blank">Inkscape</a> and cut it out on the <a href="https://glowforge.com/" target="_blank">Glowforge</a>. <br />
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I was making two boxes at once, so I made two different designs for the box tops. I had previously measured the actual dimensions of the rabbet in order to determine the dimensions of the top and bottom panels. Since the rabbet and the dado were cut to the same depth, the top and bottom panels should be the same dimensions. <br />
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I test fitted the top and bottom panels. The bottoms fit OK. Some small gaps probably caused from the box sides being slightly out of square, but acceptable. The lids would need a little massaging with the sander to fit properly. <br />
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I glued in the bottom panel and let it dry under weight, but before that, I used some sanding dust and wood glue to fill in any gaps in the mitered corners. This would be sanded smooth later. <br />
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<br />
At this point, I needed to make a decision about whether or not to use splines on my miters. I had intended to, but it sure was tempting to just leave them as is. Tempting because adding splines means a whole other level of complexity, and another set of operations with which I had no experience. Basically, it meant another chance for me to screw something up. But ultimately, I decided it was worth it, so I soldiered ahead. There was just one problem, I had my mind set on a dark wood for the spline material, and the sapele was already pretty dark, so I turned to using ebony for the splines. But I only had a little 1.5"x1"x1" nub of ebony left over <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/04/pointy-two-tone-pendulums.html" target="_blank">from turning pendulums</a>. Well, I had more ebony, but I didn't want to bust it out, because it's expensive and I'm cheap. So I forced myself to try to get sixteen splines out of this little nub.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqvgcvFgZEBFxNS5UFrbr9hfTqA3qDa3tZx9diafadWzEcEVCjvbWSgP56WGABq8tAKVeaE7hQzPByVWG5SmiWPl3Qbxgu3JWzGgI0dh6pH7pOwUWN77WpHAqNp1IlQDk5ORSkKMd1UkP/s1600/IMG_20181014_085253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqvgcvFgZEBFxNS5UFrbr9hfTqA3qDa3tZx9diafadWzEcEVCjvbWSgP56WGABq8tAKVeaE7hQzPByVWG5SmiWPl3Qbxgu3JWzGgI0dh6pH7pOwUWN77WpHAqNp1IlQDk5ORSkKMd1UkP/s400/IMG_20181014_085253.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnJ6g0JX2jVYmdR3Fier-YILjysj1V7_yitprUzwcboujzyI3lQUaZ6zlaIX1M4GN_UFko1RrkoCts4DHTrNmdTT0YWvEQVywnFBUtaOckeZhQ4Y5vpya1TLujd91z5JDmcHlEp4hMjgDA/s1600/IMG_20181014_085105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnJ6g0JX2jVYmdR3Fier-YILjysj1V7_yitprUzwcboujzyI3lQUaZ6zlaIX1M4GN_UFko1RrkoCts4DHTrNmdTT0YWvEQVywnFBUtaOckeZhQ4Y5vpya1TLujd91z5JDmcHlEp4hMjgDA/s400/IMG_20181014_085105.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Did I say one problem? I meant two. Two problems. The second being; I don't have a spline jig.<br />
<br />
Time for a side-bar.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">:: MAKING A SPLINE JIG v1.0 ::</span></b><br />
<br />
I had never made a spline jig before, but I had seen several of them used in various videos on Youtube (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23wMCOLPX58" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9yjgnQcUGY" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQs62JaX7Dk" target="_blank">here</a>). So I re-watched the video with one of the simpler designs, and got to it.<br />
<br />
I started by cutting some scraps of 3/4" plywood to make a long arch that would slide over the rip fence of my table saw. The side pieces were lightly clamped to the fence for a snug fit, and the top was glued on and stapled from the top with 1" crown staples. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUsvDw1m9QWnlvMFQtnBVmSD_qYWtQlyXi0Pzx1mv8vWZaDFiPdmSSuuMiDG9deTdnNR_DrAbtU5nOh7zgw22vT81Ki8r1NDONWVCiqrmJyEad_O9054eiX7FYNF7IWiC2hIM40M_YR3u6/s1600/IMG_20181014_184347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUsvDw1m9QWnlvMFQtnBVmSD_qYWtQlyXi0Pzx1mv8vWZaDFiPdmSSuuMiDG9deTdnNR_DrAbtU5nOh7zgw22vT81Ki8r1NDONWVCiqrmJyEad_O9054eiX7FYNF7IWiC2hIM40M_YR3u6/s400/IMG_20181014_184347.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I trimmed and squared up the edges of a scrap piece of MDF to use as the face of the jig. I found the mid point and set a framing square with the corner touching the bottom edge at a 45 degree angle. I used a speed square along the bottom edge of the MDF to ensure the angle was 45 degrees. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGROK9GFEQXvz9DS1Yv400Ar3G3j_vU30BS9uSw57TICNoqjZ0E3Dy37t19NIsINvdJRIpMkY6c-gcdj1XoMWNao3JjPxNyd-HTHb_n9cGsxN0MwlG8dinDQSil_7Zl9ikZqNMxNw3xL38/s1600/IMG_20181014_184851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGROK9GFEQXvz9DS1Yv400Ar3G3j_vU30BS9uSw57TICNoqjZ0E3Dy37t19NIsINvdJRIpMkY6c-gcdj1XoMWNao3JjPxNyd-HTHb_n9cGsxN0MwlG8dinDQSil_7Zl9ikZqNMxNw3xL38/s400/IMG_20181014_184851.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I carefully removed the speed square and replaced it with two scraps of 3/4" plywood, 1" wide and about 5" long (the dimensions really don't mater). Those got glued in place, on either side of the framing square, forming a "V". They also got 1" crown staples to clamp them down while the glue dried. I made sure to keep the staples away from the bottom end of the scraps, in case I ever needed to run the saw blade that high and through the "V". I probably would never need to, but now I won't hit staples if I ever do. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gyxzCKfBq4ac7pLV7BKucWCCBDBCHrFqnamw7uom961lkl1-vvKa1chaYp-sfjpJQjo56OjvbShd_nEKCzL_TcGDZEhed-D8Nga7ETmdZk0ca-gkVKv-Hp9X2C76IF4TcHI-zcj8zECi/s1600/IMG_20181014_190023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gyxzCKfBq4ac7pLV7BKucWCCBDBCHrFqnamw7uom961lkl1-vvKa1chaYp-sfjpJQjo56OjvbShd_nEKCzL_TcGDZEhed-D8Nga7ETmdZk0ca-gkVKv-Hp9X2C76IF4TcHI-zcj8zECi/s400/IMG_20181014_190023.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The MDF face plate was a bit tall, so I cut it in half before attaching it to the shuttle (the part that slides over the fence). I wanted to make sure I could remove the face plate if I ever decided to change it (so I wouldn't have to re-make the shuttle) so I didn't use any glue to attach it. I pre-drilled and countersunk for screws and screwed it to the shuttle with 1.25" course decking screws. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3K0Kdn4_LAkiCFZr76-m_Zn61EYBB2ocw5ZwXHSUnLRFoQGDfzQweK3BYtMg5oySku1Pwlut41R_kqahTwfCfiGqLxueqEo214_lFyiO7k4E6Y3u8xuKfOXHUHRzbQPvkOwfUTcO2lHb/s1600/IMG_20181014_190810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3K0Kdn4_LAkiCFZr76-m_Zn61EYBB2ocw5ZwXHSUnLRFoQGDfzQweK3BYtMg5oySku1Pwlut41R_kqahTwfCfiGqLxueqEo214_lFyiO7k4E6Y3u8xuKfOXHUHRzbQPvkOwfUTcO2lHb/s400/IMG_20181014_190810.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfR5eo2MOnW5TxT3p-CLCtpBbWh4dTaN5_bLGt-MNd_NvutSpVk-mvDFbClWMOTJ341DLimFzfBdXIIuTJH_L9J0WaTjey7v5nd1zr5CiywVUhQeQj4YzdxwgTpbrh-lqp0eUak9soIEQ/s1600/IMG_20181014_191308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfR5eo2MOnW5TxT3p-CLCtpBbWh4dTaN5_bLGt-MNd_NvutSpVk-mvDFbClWMOTJ341DLimFzfBdXIIuTJH_L9J0WaTjey7v5nd1zr5CiywVUhQeQj4YzdxwgTpbrh-lqp0eUak9soIEQ/s400/IMG_20181014_191308.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZITQS1DuqX-VeXy-Lpg7HRjpgnRzMn_oMcXZ8RR2u54MSR4VrKaVcTb06US28DpG0It4ax5Kxphc1OG47l3KIGGFJCEiCootdOmNe9GbUZjMQJrUpMpoF96VK4xUwcqPi1Ib208dSMNgB/s1600/IMG_20181014_191321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZITQS1DuqX-VeXy-Lpg7HRjpgnRzMn_oMcXZ8RR2u54MSR4VrKaVcTb06US28DpG0It4ax5Kxphc1OG47l3KIGGFJCEiCootdOmNe9GbUZjMQJrUpMpoF96VK4xUwcqPi1Ib208dSMNgB/s400/IMG_20181014_191321.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And that's it. That's how you make a simple spline jig. Just rest your work piece in the "V" and hold it to the faceplate. Adjust your fence to align the blade with where you want your splines. Set your depth of the splines with the blade height, and run the shuttle along the fence to cut your slots for your splines.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmr3Y2SyboqV-nMwMK5ETOY_C3aCAYcyaA0s_iDBe718zyWsxMlOjEGV6Tb80BWMLrNqAkveWJMPRefs4oZmMZ7D8HITJjIWH3K4OQBTsHD_tPdhNWMknSIl8Kc3j_oZ-BE1ukW9AmBGAy/s1600/IMG_20181014_192332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmr3Y2SyboqV-nMwMK5ETOY_C3aCAYcyaA0s_iDBe718zyWsxMlOjEGV6Tb80BWMLrNqAkveWJMPRefs4oZmMZ7D8HITJjIWH3K4OQBTsHD_tPdhNWMknSIl8Kc3j_oZ-BE1ukW9AmBGAy/s400/IMG_20181014_192332.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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PRO TIP: use a sharp blade and go slow to avoid tare out, and if you have the option, use a blade with a flat ground tooth. I didn't have one, so standard combination blade it is.<br />
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<br />
OK- So there's your bonus post for the day. I hope you enjoyed it. Now, back to the splined boxes.<br />
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Here is the box, all slotted up and ready for splines. As you saw in one of the pictures above, I cut the nub of ebony into slices on the band saw. What you didn't see was me sanding the crap out of those slices to make them fit into those slots. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWy0vuUewMPUGFM65FYMeHj3lnKSWmYVjDV2aTsAqFWTwoYpId1Cde3yxfTHABrzeKDUCnahi7F9G7j08sCI8mApLlhjQpbrV5NdsiD2F07mSdLHf9ZD_Q_saqFlBz58P1KHhNxcp3InSx/s1600/IMG_20181014_192324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWy0vuUewMPUGFM65FYMeHj3lnKSWmYVjDV2aTsAqFWTwoYpId1Cde3yxfTHABrzeKDUCnahi7F9G7j08sCI8mApLlhjQpbrV5NdsiD2F07mSdLHf9ZD_Q_saqFlBz58P1KHhNxcp3InSx/s400/IMG_20181014_192324.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once I got them to the proper thickness, I glued in the splines, just a couple at a time. Then, after the glue set, I would cut them with a small flush cut hand saw, and then reuse the left over slice of ebony in another slot. I used a scrap of card stock under my saw to make sure I didn't mar the surface of the box, and provide a little extra clearance, but this probably wasn't really necessary.<br />
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I repeated this process until all sixteen splines (two per corner on two boxes) were in place, and in case you're wondering, here is all that was left of that nub of ebony when I was done.<br />
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I could have maybe made one more spline out of it. Now that's what I call, getting my money's worth!<br />
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With the splines in place, we're almost finished. I sanded the splines flush with the sides of the boxes on the disk sander, then I sanded the whole box up to 500 grit with the orbital sander and a sheet of sand paper glued to a flat granite tile. I had to do a bit of sanding on the lids too, to make them fit properly. <br />
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Then each box and lid got two coats of shellac, with a very light sanding in between. Once that was dry, I put on a coat of paste wax, especially along the edges of the lids where they will slide in the dados. The final touch was my logo added to the underside of the box.<br />
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And that's the ballgame. Two sapele, maple and ebony boxes with sliding tops and splined mitered corners. My first real "box" project (not counting the candle boxes).<br />
And now, the glamour shots.<br />
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Oh, there is one small detail I left out. You'll notice on the latter pics a small divot on the right side of the lids. This is a thumbnail groove, to help with opening the lid. It was made with a small spindle sander on a dremel. I don't really like how it came out. That, and the fit of the lids is my least favorite part of these boxes. But overall, I'm very happy with them. Especially for a first attempt. It took me two days to finish them, but I can probably cut that down some with more practice.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-25424875507345998372018-10-04T10:00:00.000-04:002018-10-24T10:31:26.866-04:00A Good DayToday was a good day.<br />
I can't say that very often. But for some reason, everything just seemed to go well today. I got some good news, I got a new toy, and I got FREE STUFF! And who doesn't love free stuff?<br />
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OK, so Good News; My neighbor, with whom I have been having trouble these past few weeks, is being evicted. Yeah! No more screaming matches, no more police visits, no more stealing my electricity, no more taking things out of my yard, no more trash piled up beside my house. Ding dong, the witch is dead!<br />
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Seriously, these people are scum.<br />
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New Toy; Today I picked up a powder coating kit from Harbor Freight. I've been wanting one for a while, and today I finally pulled the trigger and bought one. I plan to use it to coat pen barrels for custom feather quill pens. I'm sure I'll find other uses for it as well.<br />
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Free Item #1; I got this lovely 20"x22"x1.5" slab of quartz counter top material, which I intend to use as a surface plate. I had been using a rather thin piece of tempered glass to do the "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp" target="_blank">scary sharp</a>" sharpening method, but it has a little flex in it. Then, I bought a 12" square granite floor tile to use as a surface plate, but it was a little smaller than I wanted. So today, I stopped by<a href="http://granite-encounters.com/" target="_blank"> a local place that makes granite counter tops</a> and I asked them if they had any cut offs that would work as a surface plate in a workshop, and they just handed me this nice piece of quartz! I was willing to pay for it, but they just gave it to me. It is nice and big and heavy, and has a VERY smooth surface. My dial gauge can only measure to within one thousandth of an inch, but the surface is well within that tolerance. I am totally tickled about my new surface plate, and sadly, I have no one to tell about it, so that's the main reason for this post ;)<br />
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This is going to work great for a project I am starting. I am refurbishing all my old hand planes. I have already started and the first one came out really nice.<br />
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Free Item #2; I got a phone call on Saturday from my local post office. Apparently I had a package that had been sitting there waiting for me to pick it up and I didn't know about it. It had been sitting there for the past four months! They were just about to send it back, but one of the nice employees there decided to look up my number and call me before that happened.<br />
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This is a box of <a href="https://www.thibra.us/" target="_blank">Thibra</a>. I had never heard of it before, but it is apparently a thermoplastic, like Worbla or Wonderflex. The nice people at <a href="https://www.thibra.us/" target="_blank">Thibra</a> just decided to send me some of their product to try out (no doubt instigated by this blog). Oddly, the package was addressed to "Herr Doktor", but then under that it said MRX Designs and my PO box address. <a href="http://www.xn--herrdktor-47a.com/" target="_blank">Herr Doktor</a> is a very talented maker in the steampunk community, who used to operate a blog, but it hasn't been updated in years. I don't know if they thought I was him, or they got us confused, or why his name would be on the box, but I'm gonna keep it anyway. I wrote the company a thank you note. Sorry that it is four months late.<br />
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So, a good day. Well, a good couple of days, actually. My hand plane that I refurbished the other day came out really well. Oh, and the other day I went down to the <a href="http://www.keimlumber.com/" target="_blank">Amish lumber store </a>and found a nice big piece of Ipe in the bargain bin for $5. I guess even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.<br />
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.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-76890826265789008522018-09-25T23:01:00.000-04:002018-09-25T23:01:03.616-04:00Ancient ArtifactI've been making things for as long as I can remember. I made a cardboard box space ship when I was six or seven. I made an electronic intercom system for my bedroom when I was about ten. I made a line of hand painted t-shirts and sneakers when I was about twelve- and on, and on. Most of those items have long since gone to the scrap heap, or disintegrated (I wore some of those t-shirts well into college). But one item from my youthful maker experiments still remains in my possession, and it is in as good of condition as when I made it, back in 1984- <i>when I was twelve</i>.<br />
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This is a picture of my first attempt to make a knife. Its shape was loosely inspired by the Klingon D'k tahg, or "warrior's dagger". It was made from a piece of 10 gauge mild steel flat bar that I found laying around in my dad's garage. One night, I just picked it up, clamped it in the work bench vise, and started going at it with a steel file. The corners were clipped with a hack saw. The center was opened up with a drill press, and the majority of the shaping and finishing was done, by hand, with a file. It took a long time. Many many nights were spent out in the garage filing away. Oh, and emery cloth for the polishing. I started working on a cross guard for it, about a year or two after I made the knife, but I soon abandoned that effort.<br />
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The blade is 1.75" wide and 9.75" long, and about an eighth of an inch thick. The overall length of the knife is 15.75 inches. Obviously, as a twelve year old, I knew nothing about metalurgy; had no idea about heat treating or tempering. I knew that if you heated a knife blade too much you would ruin the edge, but I didn't really understand why. And I had no idea that mild steel contained too little carbon to ever hold an edge. But hay, it was big and it was wicked looking, and it was all done by me.<br />
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The handle was cut from a fallen tree limb I found in the ally behind my parents' house. I have no idea what kind of tree it was, but knowing the region like I do now, it was very possibly silver maple. That neighborhood is littered with them. The tang goes back about a third of the way into the handle. It was affixed by just drilling out a slot in the end of the branch (after whittling off the bark and cutting it to length). Then the slot was jammed over the tang and the branch was hammered home. I always intended to carve a better shape into the handle, but I never did. As with all woodworking projects made at my house during that era, it was stained with used motor oil.<br />
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I didn't engrave the MRX initials into the ricasso until a couple years later. But this was also done by hand, using a metal chisel and a hammer.<br />
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This is probably the oldest surviving example of any of my projects. Sometimes I look back on some of the things I did as a little kid and I wonder- were my parents even paying attention? Those were different times.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-76739887232919120012018-09-15T22:26:00.000-04:002018-09-15T22:26:18.093-04:00Painted Pentagram SketchbookI recently visited a local craft store and found some nice 8x10 (ish) sketchbooks with cloth covered boards. They were surprisingly cheap, so I grabbed a couple for a future project. I have stacks and stacks of sketchbooks sitting around waiting to be made into custom books, but, I liked the cloth covers on these ones and, again, they were really cheap.<br />
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So, the other day, I was working at the store (my clerk was out for medical reasons), and I got bored. In my boredom, I had an idea for a quick paint job that I thought would look really nice on those new sketchbooks. This is essentially the same paint job that I have done on <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/02/faux-leather-book-covering-v10.html" target="_blank">my kraft paper covered journals</a> in the past, with a few minor differences.<br />
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I started by cutting out a paper stencil of the pentagram. I have a huge stack of pentagrams that I photo copied about fifteen years ago, and I have been pulling from that pile ever since. I cut it out with an x-acto knife and used mounting spray (a weak spray adhesive) on one side to fix it to the sketchbook cover. I originally intended to center it, but the stencil was a little too big for the cover, and as I was laying it out, I kind of liked how it looked off-center like this. The stencil wrapped around the spine, so I made sure to stick it down into the french groove with the bone folder.<br />
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The second step was to use a sea sponge and dab the cover randomly with dark red acrylic paint. To do this, I opened the covers so that I could paint the front and back at the same time. I let the pages dangle straight down, and used two large cardboard boxes to support the covers. This worked, but it made it difficult to get any paint into the french groove, so on future ones, I just left the book closed and did the front and back covers separately.<br />
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Next, I repeated the painting process with a brighter shade of red acrylic paint. I made sure to leave plenty of area where the dark red and even the black of the original cover, showed through.<br />
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The fourth step was to remove the paper stencil, revealing the black book cloth beneath. This was more difficult than I had thought it would be. Not that the spray glue grabbed too hard, but the paint soaked the edges of the paper stencil, and so the stencil tore at the edges, leaving behind a very visible white deckled edge along much of the pentagram's border. This I had to carefully scrape with a hobby knife to try to get the remnants of the stencil off, without damaging the paint or the book cover.<br />
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I managed to get the paper off, but there were several places that my scraping was very visible. It detracted significantly from the overall appearance of the book. I decided to try to mask the damaged areas with another layer of paint. I used a stiff bristled brush to dab on some copper acrylic paint over the most visible trouble areas. Then I used the sea sponge again with the copper paint to blend in those dab marks and hide them. I used the copper paint very sparingly. I did not want to obscure the pentagram design.<br />
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I could have just used the sea sponge with the copper paint, but there was a chance that the problem areas I was trying to hide would fall in a "dead spot" on the sponge and I would have to make several passes over the area with the sponge to get the coverage I needed. This would have made the copper too heavy handed. Using the paint brush first ensured that the worst spots were covered by the copper paint, and then the sponge would hide the deliberateness of those repaired spots. Not only did the copper highlights cover the trouble areas, it really brought the design to life. Now, I can't imaging the book without it. <br />
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The last step was to spray the entire cover with a spray sealer. It only took about an hour to paint this book, and I am very pleased with the way it turned out. It has been several years since I have made a modified journal like this. I think I need to get back to it.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-30433607399773994182018-09-06T08:25:00.000-04:002019-09-20T21:12:50.617-04:00Planchettes v1.5My planchette project started out as a quick weekend thing, and it turned into a three month long saga. This project took for freaking ever to wrap up, and I still have some more woods that I would like to make some out of, but I need to walk away.<br />
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So,
while waiting for the black marbles, my 40mm glass cabochons arrived. I had
saved about half of the second batch to experiment with insetting the
glass cabs into the open hole. <br />
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This
second style (I guess we could call it v1.5) has a slightly bigger hole
that was set a little farther back on the body of the planchette. I
used a 1-5/8" forstner bit to cut about half way through the wooden body
(it was as close to 40mm as I could get without a metric forstner bit
set), and then I used a 1-3/8" forstner bit to drill the rest of the way
through. This gave me a small rim to rest the edge of the cabochon in.
This ledge is visible in the pictures above, and this is the <u>underside</u> of the planchette.<br />
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This batch I finished a little differently than the first two. These were finished with three coats of tung oil, and then followed up with a coat of paste wax. <br />
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I attached the marble feet first, using E6000 glue and drilling recess holes, like before. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONCrdOwxR-c-dxjQ5tR0bRD2goib9z_iQwWO5YzX76msNMDzIK9lJPdpXI4dIMa4tIgwrL1R0P7uS8bECe6peXxlkDhlTgHufdhZae_s9Z2Z25yp__pJ4IHcOfp4zcdn8XT6BfEmU8yka/s1600/IMG_20180820_050014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONCrdOwxR-c-dxjQ5tR0bRD2goib9z_iQwWO5YzX76msNMDzIK9lJPdpXI4dIMa4tIgwrL1R0P7uS8bECe6peXxlkDhlTgHufdhZae_s9Z2Z25yp__pJ4IHcOfp4zcdn8XT6BfEmU8yka/s320/IMG_20180820_050014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The
flat side of the cabochon faces down, and from the top side, the domed
side of the cabochon pokes up a little through the slightly smaller
hole.The glass cab was glued in place from the underside. The glass cab
has a nice magnifying effect for objects seen through it. I think it
will work well for reading the letters of the spirit board through the
hole. A small bead of E6000 was run around the lip of the hole, and the cab was dropped in.<br />
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<br />
I didn't like the black marbles I waited so long to find, so I ended up using 10-12 mm marbles I found at Michael's.<br />
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<br />
Here are the third batch, all finished. Many of these will be going in my Etst store, and some will be sold in my shop.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRU4SiAtSEzkzUyZWI8NC7FQzB1_i5SO61lHu4pnJtuLEtLGG2BtW1tRcnkvd3dvwVgh16fBfTQQ1DhlM9k3DNgj_ptHqANRgwAlGNunGDWhxEEwhykUi3Jsvf3huJfAAUExmMGZ5G6-_/s1600/IMG_20180820_161725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRU4SiAtSEzkzUyZWI8NC7FQzB1_i5SO61lHu4pnJtuLEtLGG2BtW1tRcnkvd3dvwVgh16fBfTQQ1DhlM9k3DNgj_ptHqANRgwAlGNunGDWhxEEwhykUi3Jsvf3huJfAAUExmMGZ5G6-_/s320/IMG_20180820_161725.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZDKBZMVKoD6wcu_sFFsL-VhuD4tZ_c44TRU2xX-eIzdS1YhMDO8Xan-NNQpuKzO25b6ZVq3elf7OpHl2mHIF0OOXQDaZ1hRNGFJ1BRzhjzIlY2WQvJl_sB5XFM4MuZMnS9LJN16WZHCI/s1600/20180820_162412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZDKBZMVKoD6wcu_sFFsL-VhuD4tZ_c44TRU2xX-eIzdS1YhMDO8Xan-NNQpuKzO25b6ZVq3elf7OpHl2mHIF0OOXQDaZ1hRNGFJ1BRzhjzIlY2WQvJl_sB5XFM4MuZMnS9LJN16WZHCI/s320/20180820_162412.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm5ahL9J7PgPQTbruVN5_zrQF9CXaAthsa63CBLO-TZhS79ZlrRCJVViOsuncE9Igv4EY_XfzofYZmSV9Y_JEXlmZWoESrDKSWaOHK_vpj15zTIWb-Z7ZOaywhXYCm1MLOPumnHhJqE3T8/s1600/20180820_162803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm5ahL9J7PgPQTbruVN5_zrQF9CXaAthsa63CBLO-TZhS79ZlrRCJVViOsuncE9Igv4EY_XfzofYZmSV9Y_JEXlmZWoESrDKSWaOHK_vpj15zTIWb-Z7ZOaywhXYCm1MLOPumnHhJqE3T8/s320/20180820_162803.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTGV_dKwXjUWSfDMK2Fy7tl7TrauiKkSdZ-wRZIqh7j6sKBuWrFNRIz6nUgyCFp8q3wu_vHiu2j9qRvQfcowQYUTW4OkfSGZappE0tkYTP1m-mnVabmJvM405V1_iwnMVh0sx4-xTHwi56/s1600/20180820_162751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTGV_dKwXjUWSfDMK2Fy7tl7TrauiKkSdZ-wRZIqh7j6sKBuWrFNRIz6nUgyCFp8q3wu_vHiu2j9qRvQfcowQYUTW4OkfSGZappE0tkYTP1m-mnVabmJvM405V1_iwnMVh0sx4-xTHwi56/s320/20180820_162751.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mulberry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1LG5MsOdi7E5DjZW6LlJOP8GbHuStPcodNdAglkdNFY2J1akkxscFBj9qBorGzxdBsdspocjXlAWyHpK5CIp2DhV1QXqOKowqDDaVcd2szV-V8Hi7G9CNQYu8xj-BQj9ZCUFSFaf_vm-/s1600/20180820_162934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1LG5MsOdi7E5DjZW6LlJOP8GbHuStPcodNdAglkdNFY2J1akkxscFBj9qBorGzxdBsdspocjXlAWyHpK5CIp2DhV1QXqOKowqDDaVcd2szV-V8Hi7G9CNQYu8xj-BQj9ZCUFSFaf_vm-/s320/20180820_162934.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgU0qipRMuLNfxBJlj9WW3ljn5lulWWoir_jt9aig2zoHSkInDSSnqvmFT3GjYTMF164UoR6KLpV6FbWCh2kl05s-dXmPL7Sz7edDSKypbljen3zCnlxs5jeMnoQpgqOT62081_c2ycpl/s1600/20180820_163002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgU0qipRMuLNfxBJlj9WW3ljn5lulWWoir_jt9aig2zoHSkInDSSnqvmFT3GjYTMF164UoR6KLpV6FbWCh2kl05s-dXmPL7Sz7edDSKypbljen3zCnlxs5jeMnoQpgqOT62081_c2ycpl/s320/20180820_163002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
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I'd still like to make some planchettes out of hickory and walnut, but I have to set this aside for now. I'm planchetted out.<br />
<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-20379952120477851432018-08-26T08:05:00.001-04:002019-09-20T21:13:05.906-04:00Planchette v1.0It took me a little while to figure out what I was going to do with the beautiful <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/05/hidden-treasure.html" target="_blank">spalted maple scrap wood </a>I recently got from my friend, Carl. I thought about making it into a rune set, but then the pattern of the spalting would have been mostly lost when cut into small pieces. I thought about making it into a tarot card box, but it was just a little bit too narrow, and that would have been a lot of work. Finally I decided that I would make some simple custom planchettes that would showcase the beauty of the wood. For any of you that don't know<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=planchette&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1" target="_blank"> what a planchette is</a>; it is that heart shaped thing you put your hands on when using a Ouija board. The spirit boards I sell in my shop come with planchettes that I think are really sub-par; so I wanted to offer some nicer ones as an option for my customers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1YtPgBcc8Crbrq4jDeCH6TUPQwyUIGJxjAYdoVTLxxt_wNQHegmOebvZPhhJG6wvZ9wTbJm9B1w-sF7IYE6bo324CvakFWeoSdMWYBSTBDyQSeJARbOmrBX5cUcXptwVq92QbH3DqJh3/s1600/IMG_20180425_011625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1YtPgBcc8Crbrq4jDeCH6TUPQwyUIGJxjAYdoVTLxxt_wNQHegmOebvZPhhJG6wvZ9wTbJm9B1w-sF7IYE6bo324CvakFWeoSdMWYBSTBDyQSeJARbOmrBX5cUcXptwVq92QbH3DqJh3/s400/IMG_20180425_011625.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the wood that I am talking about. I showed it in a previous post. This was old cribbing material that was used on a semi-truck. It cleans up real nice, don't it?<br />
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I was already planning on making some inexpensive custom planchettes on my laser cutter, and had already begun laying out a design on the computer. I made a few adjustments and printed the design out on paper.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwCEwNHyZHsPs8OAcAAyKgZCrzL_zzQvx1N1A0yln4OOSPitIT6DH4h_yYgjtkmrB3_O1IfyI6Q491Jd65wARV5BfT5f0mUwMJwgES5iHtD41pcm7Ioqz8PnHUpWZABg-qP6a0rWVpKkB/s1600/IMG_20180514_080646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwCEwNHyZHsPs8OAcAAyKgZCrzL_zzQvx1N1A0yln4OOSPitIT6DH4h_yYgjtkmrB3_O1IfyI6Q491Jd65wARV5BfT5f0mUwMJwgES5iHtD41pcm7Ioqz8PnHUpWZABg-qP6a0rWVpKkB/s400/IMG_20180514_080646.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVO3sPBwPCdI3MemCIPGqoOApX9qtru-KePcZyL-RL3IJXDTfGDFAVZF89iMwuhlOSvfAIRw0tzpQYxJKNpCcAp7kutZ3fAWmaPqt08ctky7HnQmqlMBf2uSM_vgyvxiQyD496nGpDaIJ/s1600/IMG_20180514_080810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVO3sPBwPCdI3MemCIPGqoOApX9qtru-KePcZyL-RL3IJXDTfGDFAVZF89iMwuhlOSvfAIRw0tzpQYxJKNpCcAp7kutZ3fAWmaPqt08ctky7HnQmqlMBf2uSM_vgyvxiQyD496nGpDaIJ/s400/IMG_20180514_080810.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You can ignore the decorative elements on the paper template. They will not be incorporated into this project. I spray glued the paper template to the wood and cut it out on a scroll saw. Then I refined the shape on a disk sander. When following a template like this, always cut just outside the line, then sand up to the line. I had to use a spindle sander to get into that little divot on the ass end, and I used an 1.25" <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=forstner+bit&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1" target="_blank">forstner bit </a>to drill out the hole. The cut pieces were sanded smooth and finished with two coats of shellac. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17PQd1xjlPzOec8vmwFa29V7HjBu1SjORLrxgo-cCko_fg8scuLByyhzLg-VzSzgcMfK05_IM8Mgj3SH4MVKsyl2Z90yci8Y97ifQnmLfY3nDHznAiyXUTAJm4aKkd_wc0qBWA7CnHhTX/s1600/IMG_20180514_080600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17PQd1xjlPzOec8vmwFa29V7HjBu1SjORLrxgo-cCko_fg8scuLByyhzLg-VzSzgcMfK05_IM8Mgj3SH4MVKsyl2Z90yci8Y97ifQnmLfY3nDHznAiyXUTAJm4aKkd_wc0qBWA7CnHhTX/s400/IMG_20180514_080600.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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These particular ones will just have an empty hole, but I have some 40mm
glass cabochons on order for future planchette projects.<br />
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I liked the way these came out so much I decided to look around for some other scraps of wood to make some more. I have a small pile of off-cuts left over from<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/08/free-wood.html" target="_blank"> slabbing some beautiful aged cherry logs</a>. I grabbed one of the larger ones and ran it through the planer about a hundred times to get a usable plank, about a half inch thick.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9jV-S4e6HhHihcfo_zZ_u_cusY-9F7yQCSJidFJKCUl45U_F9a2viBg2tPJDXX2SsC_5EpyaPJEvHrjtY5y4Bldss8MWqYEHAu6vWuAB_S2lz2qWWFK7RSTn8IvnnP5OU_Dm4cElT_0x/s1600/IMG_20180514_081001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9jV-S4e6HhHihcfo_zZ_u_cusY-9F7yQCSJidFJKCUl45U_F9a2viBg2tPJDXX2SsC_5EpyaPJEvHrjtY5y4Bldss8MWqYEHAu6vWuAB_S2lz2qWWFK7RSTn8IvnnP5OU_Dm4cElT_0x/s400/IMG_20180514_081001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rMcJhorMrB-R9AXkOT9-pEYfz_UG0rkh0hxeVmoafdMm8Vtd8l647nzPrU8Mce0gV35WVqGA0HR0O77FIop6bom9aMpcVGBaFtND1_r_AyhqFKiB0jCUQZkNe7gXnZtyontczRqV_pVQ/s1600/IMG_20180514_080940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rMcJhorMrB-R9AXkOT9-pEYfz_UG0rkh0hxeVmoafdMm8Vtd8l647nzPrU8Mce0gV35WVqGA0HR0O77FIop6bom9aMpcVGBaFtND1_r_AyhqFKiB0jCUQZkNe7gXnZtyontczRqV_pVQ/s400/IMG_20180514_080940.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I <i>looove</i> this cherry wood. Trust me, these pictures don't do it justice. When you get some finish on these, or splash some mineral spirits on it, the color just lights up like flame! These are off-cuts that are mostly sapwood, so the effect is less dramatic, but there is still a little of that flame in there. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_mx6gAktbvkZ9WFGCtDgBcDLh_skGknI_kuAAg_60B6k0UKYphdh3ImrMPKujV23chcEAVKD7at4Q6-7tCdzhEsJKlrmv8jtWJN5NT51vYgGD-VFWXNlycvKat0DAVty5lMP0q7lWFJ/s1600/IMG_20180514_081830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_mx6gAktbvkZ9WFGCtDgBcDLh_skGknI_kuAAg_60B6k0UKYphdh3ImrMPKujV23chcEAVKD7at4Q6-7tCdzhEsJKlrmv8jtWJN5NT51vYgGD-VFWXNlycvKat0DAVty5lMP0q7lWFJ/s400/IMG_20180514_081830.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used the same templates and glued them to the cherry wood and repeated the same steps as I did with the spalted maple; cut out, drill, sand, shellac. Here are the finished cherry planchettes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM2I-R3qOU1h7ryXaF5-j9nXIX_sz8y-AnX9WF84f85O8yeemFdV2qo5qeCn5F2_wtHlLUnoBB0RJQnSEh0Nckp3-xlOUTmc9WdWBIGbRlavR366RvLwzXp6-mpK9QNAjFuTvE4c67TQj9/s1600/IMG_20180516_032707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM2I-R3qOU1h7ryXaF5-j9nXIX_sz8y-AnX9WF84f85O8yeemFdV2qo5qeCn5F2_wtHlLUnoBB0RJQnSEh0Nckp3-xlOUTmc9WdWBIGbRlavR366RvLwzXp6-mpK9QNAjFuTvE4c67TQj9/s400/IMG_20180516_032707.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The final step is to put feet on them, so that they slide smoothly across the board. I was originally going to use those craft store glass drops that people use in flower vases, but they were a little too big and not uniform in size/shape. It would have worked, but I didn't like the way it looked. Instead, I decided to drill a small indent into the underside in three places, and glue in a glass marble.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LSFA8mjQ68d2hlPg_h-_3CHBo_BIUY7b17j6ZeAiy4Ri2hOxuT8F6kXqf6Xrkkjs9TuPkVHn7m43q5f_GbjmFFc6kZEIH8ZdknhEzUVp1TyodWW5xeCsygqemUCn1z8_KNiAO1CZK6YQ/s1600/IMG_20180612_025344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LSFA8mjQ68d2hlPg_h-_3CHBo_BIUY7b17j6ZeAiy4Ri2hOxuT8F6kXqf6Xrkkjs9TuPkVHn7m43q5f_GbjmFFc6kZEIH8ZdknhEzUVp1TyodWW5xeCsygqemUCn1z8_KNiAO1CZK6YQ/s400/IMG_20180612_025344.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, I struggled for several weeks to find marbles that I liked for the job. I checked all the local places; craft stores, dollar stores, discount stores. I checked many of them more than once. No luck. I wanted black glass marbles. I even looked online, but had trouble finding what I was looking for at a reasonable price. I finally found one item on Amazon, which I ordered, but it never showed up! I waited over two weeks, and eventually the order got canceled and refunded. Then I found another offering on Amazon. It was for black glass marbles, but slightly bigger than I wanted, and I had to get five pounds of them!<br />
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So, after a month of searching, and two Amazon orders, my black glass marbles finally arrived. They were not as small as I would have liked (I originally ordered 14mm and ended up with 16mm), and they were not as high of quality as I would have liked (noticeable surface creases), but they were the right color, and they showed up, so off we got to installing them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7gR9gnFAXYUhkpRI5VEwJIdHaiMu5XB6qEV-HCCFnD92SMUku4XUg-iwbMFtmLDZbQK2TuLnDa_xnu3lf1O3-nTuYqKVCTqBM-UUWAF8SmtuZ9vSccy8EZB3wUnQCc_aTVq_pqy-qgge/s1600/IMG_20180612_032537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7gR9gnFAXYUhkpRI5VEwJIdHaiMu5XB6qEV-HCCFnD92SMUku4XUg-iwbMFtmLDZbQK2TuLnDa_xnu3lf1O3-nTuYqKVCTqBM-UUWAF8SmtuZ9vSccy8EZB3wUnQCc_aTVq_pqy-qgge/s400/IMG_20180612_032537.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoc_IFpqKhN-H_xNZanjVi-ujGkQIOCJshE8-5MpcOYN6Yg_bI3_1gGzBZRi5bPAEE46GIzJNJyQvM3juz5uR_GF8gZYziZTbnYC7nuG-lCknsVBZtnUvzApKv4d_sf24iD40q6QNXtid/s1600/IMG_20180612_032508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoc_IFpqKhN-H_xNZanjVi-ujGkQIOCJshE8-5MpcOYN6Yg_bI3_1gGzBZRi5bPAEE46GIzJNJyQvM3juz5uR_GF8gZYziZTbnYC7nuG-lCknsVBZtnUvzApKv4d_sf24iD40q6QNXtid/s400/IMG_20180612_032508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I made a few test holes in a scrap piece of wood to see what size hole, and at what depth, would give me the surface profile I wanted. I tried 1/2" holes and 9/16" holes for the 16mm marbles, and the 9/16" holes, drilled just deep enough that the marble doesn't bottom out, seemed the best. I have to be careful not to drill all the way through some of the thinner planchettes. I wasn't originally going to drill into them for the feet, so the first few planchettes I made were planed a little thinner than later ones.<br />
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<i><b>Note:</b> Just about every time I use the word "planed" (as in, running a piece of wood through a thickness planer), I have to look it up to make sure I am using the right spelling, and I'm usually not. If you see me writing "planned", or "plained", just roll with it. Sometimes I miss one, or I forget to look it up, or I think I remember the proper spelling from the last time I looked it up, and have it wrong again.</i><br />
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I looked through my stash of parts and found three colors of marbles that were smaller than 16mm. I don't like the colors as well, but someone else may have different tastes, so I decided to use some of the smaller marbles as well.<br />
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Although I still think black is the color of choice, the more I look at them, the less I like the black marbles I got. They are too big and too imperfect. I doubt I will be using very many of them. The tiny clear marbles I found at Michaels are my favorite so far. I did find one website that had exactly what I wanted, and for a reasonable price, but the shipping was outrageous. I wouldn't pay it. Anyway, I've got five pounds of these ones I don't like. I'll probably sit on them for years.<br />
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Here are the first two batches all finished. These are spalted maple, mahogany, cherry, elm, and mulberry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5E_9Fyjd_kuG2tX2OEcW31jVFuDOo_kOu00XwigAizFMANO4c72KuBQopdgOd1Tt_YdIvwXC71txlI8V09IKKo_2hesxmMc8knV6eJ18nfMIuFiANWAan5JOvSPvVRabTv0onuX3P8BA-/s1600/20180820_164559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5E_9Fyjd_kuG2tX2OEcW31jVFuDOo_kOu00XwigAizFMANO4c72KuBQopdgOd1Tt_YdIvwXC71txlI8V09IKKo_2hesxmMc8knV6eJ18nfMIuFiANWAan5JOvSPvVRabTv0onuX3P8BA-/s320/20180820_164559.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spalted Maple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinoVg7z10lo6XZ4hizr30pGWhLavQjt7N6SqLZXCPgfCD9QEaABRRnOxmW0wTnPtmkN1Ka4LGnbJDATptsOp4vTURgdsGhrj4O8zebej6FyDsuavs2UU9BhaD04UCYktYeHH_Kia95VkpP/s1600/20180820_164527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinoVg7z10lo6XZ4hizr30pGWhLavQjt7N6SqLZXCPgfCD9QEaABRRnOxmW0wTnPtmkN1Ka4LGnbJDATptsOp4vTURgdsGhrj4O8zebej6FyDsuavs2UU9BhaD04UCYktYeHH_Kia95VkpP/s320/20180820_164527.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spalted Maple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcu5orL_M13Wfiiz3CBdc60Ew5lm4Nl5Z7mErgt0vlAJDP9y-oA3zHau2F5GyLQd3uzpn7OJ9aU29tRVjInLopglugno8k3nUAZ-FAMyDp5ffKIGLNUVzdBYSKfRsQVjwcVaO88Wqgpi5u/s1600/20180820_164457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcu5orL_M13Wfiiz3CBdc60Ew5lm4Nl5Z7mErgt0vlAJDP9y-oA3zHau2F5GyLQd3uzpn7OJ9aU29tRVjInLopglugno8k3nUAZ-FAMyDp5ffKIGLNUVzdBYSKfRsQVjwcVaO88Wqgpi5u/s320/20180820_164457.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4A-NAjqzU97QwyXJ1cHQfzBQrr1Z8eae-x2GmRiImTahmmQYcfAmEw54B-BRvwr5zb-xprlJ1ot4ZbTFq-9mp4DMjRxO1CRxpUSSXU2-g4Er_JwDDWvkeg0YLODsLHhRp4Mg6PzNNntWz/s1600/20180820_164423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4A-NAjqzU97QwyXJ1cHQfzBQrr1Z8eae-x2GmRiImTahmmQYcfAmEw54B-BRvwr5zb-xprlJ1ot4ZbTFq-9mp4DMjRxO1CRxpUSSXU2-g4Er_JwDDWvkeg0YLODsLHhRp4Mg6PzNNntWz/s320/20180820_164423.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spalted Maple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb0-OBtKeJIhIVCS4sID0JuTqjPLDWgW9F5bsoPLiBErW_DfxTlNLJKJJoLhJ_f2H0WQUu2Xzy0vqqNf_ph_Fv5O1kZeFyQazv44bqym3cLIkza9ljrVI1XYMHEwj-dhjWteWZlhslnKT/s1600/20180820_164339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb0-OBtKeJIhIVCS4sID0JuTqjPLDWgW9F5bsoPLiBErW_DfxTlNLJKJJoLhJ_f2H0WQUu2Xzy0vqqNf_ph_Fv5O1kZeFyQazv44bqym3cLIkza9ljrVI1XYMHEwj-dhjWteWZlhslnKT/s320/20180820_164339.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spalted Maple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrn0Q65JcvqgRnVhPQMd0qvdjTPwTkhwLILSQ-GC63NrOWvzJvD8msCHnyZiHxt1azv0CZZnXQ2FyfFsfHk1z_vYOxyo95UjYq1B17F_gS_T_c_qk8vT4Eshfoft1TOh_H2UYtz31LpGa/s1600/20180820_164300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrn0Q65JcvqgRnVhPQMd0qvdjTPwTkhwLILSQ-GC63NrOWvzJvD8msCHnyZiHxt1azv0CZZnXQ2FyfFsfHk1z_vYOxyo95UjYq1B17F_gS_T_c_qk8vT4Eshfoft1TOh_H2UYtz31LpGa/s320/20180820_164300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib_z395CO75WOP-8cHbUYl1PkpbXImpBlaNvKfnQY8z5bXJOXMD064kZlhgveXhJ56XEOfjn1ymcDKkGu1uR6IvRJ1bPDrxEvbN7hFEu2_m5GEjn0CoB4ChkaplOMpvF1XyQKwY7X-Fg-G/s1600/20180820_163101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib_z395CO75WOP-8cHbUYl1PkpbXImpBlaNvKfnQY8z5bXJOXMD064kZlhgveXhJ56XEOfjn1ymcDKkGu1uR6IvRJ1bPDrxEvbN7hFEu2_m5GEjn0CoB4ChkaplOMpvF1XyQKwY7X-Fg-G/s320/20180820_163101.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahogany</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mulberry</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCYlbNW9uSMvbooAUx6Ae8vtDCWyganuLozA04b6N5ouMUmIO_ZVuXclqPjPv__HgxpTEgtmf2mQDUUcGKWofxYnv09XDERcaQcxOxlWt1B1i8rJFK6WFL8Y81iwk3h5aj7daUeMeew7Pp/s1600/20180820_162156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCYlbNW9uSMvbooAUx6Ae8vtDCWyganuLozA04b6N5ouMUmIO_ZVuXclqPjPv__HgxpTEgtmf2mQDUUcGKWofxYnv09XDERcaQcxOxlWt1B1i8rJFK6WFL8Y81iwk3h5aj7daUeMeew7Pp/s320/20180820_162156.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elm</td></tr>
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The shellac finish on the second batch gave me trouble for some reason. I ended up putting it on really thick and sanding it back to try to smooth it out, then i followed up with a coat of paste wax. I was not happy with the finish at all, so for the third batch I tried something different.<br />
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I have a third batch that is now finally finished, which are slightly different. We'll call them v1.5 (next time).<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-34858447392221214402018-06-22T11:27:00.000-04:002018-06-22T11:27:18.264-04:00Wooden Book Cover v1.0At times, I suffer from insomnia. I can lay in bed, failing to sleep, for eight hours or more. Recently, during one of these bouts, my mind would not stop fixating on a new woodworking project. A wood covered book. So, the next day, I started working on a prototype. I wasn't 100% sure of all the details, so I used scrap pine as the material in case things didn't work out the way I had planned.<br />
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I started with a reclaimed pine 2x6. I planned to use 8.5"x11" paper folded into signatures for the text block, so I cut the board into 10" sections. I will cut it to final size (9 inches) after it is cleaned up a bit. One section got cut into 3/4" wide strips. These will become the spines. I am working on several copies at once. <br />
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The other section had to be re-sawed into thinner planks for the covers. These cover boards had to take many trips through the planer to get them flat and smooth and planed down to the proper thickness. With the spine being 1.5" thick, 3/8" thick covers would leave me a good amount of space for the text block. I had to cut another 2x6 to make enough cover boards to make three books.<br />
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Then the spines got ran through the planer to square them up and get the paint off. Once that was done, it was time to cut the channel where the text block would sit. For this, I got to use my <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_(joinery)" target="_blank">dado</a> stack for the first time!<br />
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A 1.5" wide spine, minus a 3/8" cover on each side, leaves a 3/4" channel in the middle for the text block. The trick to making perfectly centered dados, is to make your stack a little smaller than the width of the<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_(joinery)" target="_blank"> dado</a> you need. Then set your fence for the gap you want on each side, and run the wood through twice. The first pass establishes the gap on the fence side, then flip the wood around and run it through again going the other direction. This will set the dame distance for the gap on the other side. That probably doesn't explain it very well, but hopefully you will get what I mean from the pictures.<br />
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In the midst of planing, one of the cover boards cracked because it had the pith running through it. The pith is usually very weak, and should be avoided whenever possible. To salvage the board, I used super glue (cyanoacrylate) to repair the crack and strengthen the pith. While I was at it, I decided to put CA glue on all the other knots, cracks and other imperfections. In hindsight, I should have saved this step until later. Having the CA glue on the wood now means I can't use stain.<br />
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Once the CA Glue was dry, it was all sanded smooth. Then I dug out the old router table and a round over bit to round over the edges of the boards so that the books would be nicer to handle. The only edges that did not get rounded over were the ones where the boards would meet up at the hinge.<br />
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Now, it's time for decoration, so onto the new laser cutter! I used Inkscape to lay out the design, and burned it into the wood pieces with my Glowforge laser cutter/engraver. Although it was a big investment (about $2000) and a long wait for shipping (about 2 years!), I am glad I bought the laser. It has really opened up a lot of new possibilities for my work. I have no doubt I will outgrow this model eventually, but when that happens, now that I know what it can do for me, I wouldn't hesitate to invest in another machine (about $4k for the next step up).<br />
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Once all the pieces were laser engraved, it was time to apply finish to the pieces before final assembly. I started with a coat of shellac, then several coats of tung oil. Tung oil gives a beautiful finish, but it is a pain to apply. Flood the surface; wait 15 minutes. If the surface soaks up the oil, reapply. When 15 minutes is up, wipe off the excess oil. Then wait 24 hours to dry. Sand lightly, then do it all again. Repeat 3-4 times. Oh, and don't work on anything else in your shop while the finish is drying, or you will get sawdust in the finish! I hate the finishing process. I'm very impatient.<br />
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Now that the covers have finish applied, it is time to start on the pages. A while back, I got a really good deal on some parchment style card stock and thought that it would make great fill pages for blank journals. So, I cracked open a pack of it and started folding the pages in half with a bone folder.<br />
<br />
A bone folder is one of those odd tools that seems so simple as to be unnecessary. Lots of people forgo buying a bone folder, instead using something like a table knife, or a spoon, or just their hands. Let me state (again) for the record that especially for bookbinding, the quality of my results improved substantially when I started using a bone folder. Do not forgo the folder. The folder is your friend. And don't cheap out and buy the plastic kind. Get real bone. It makes a difference. It seems like it shouldn't, but it does.<br />
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I grouped the folded pages into four page signatures. Normally, I would go with 6-8 page signatures, but these pages are kinda thick (65lbs. stock). Then I used two staples at the signature fold to keep each signature together. Because the throat depth on my stapler is too shallow to reach the fold, I had to open up the stapler and staple through the signature into a block of cork (an old coaster), then fold the ends of the staple over by hand.<br />
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<br />
Once all the signatures were together and stapled, I gathered them all together into a text block, made sure the edges were square and even at the spine, and trimmed the fore edge of the text block with a guillotine style paper cutter.<br />
<br />
This paper cutter is awesome. It is super heavy duty. I found it on Craig's List for like $60-75 in perfect condition. I looked it up online and found this model retails for $400. The only issue it has (and the #1 complaint against it in online reviews) is that it doesn't cut straight if the stack of paper is TOO SMALL. This thing is designed to cut like 300 pages at a time! If you try to cut a stack that is less than about a half inch thick, the presser foot doesn't engage properly (not enough travel in the screw adjust to make it press all the way down to the bed) and so the pages don't get held firmly to the bed. This makes them move as the blade engages, and makes for a bad cut. To combat this problem, I plan to make a removable 3/4" thick spacer strip (probably out of wood) to place between the presser foot and the pages, for use with short stacks of pages.<br />
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With the signatures all stapled and the fore edges all neatly trimmed, it was time to glue the text block into the dado on the wooden spine. I used a flexible, but very strong, glue called E6000. I laid the glue inside the dado, not going all the way to the ends, but covering a large swath in the middle, making sure that the glue was distributed across the entire width of the dado, so every signature's fold would be sure to get glued.<br />
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Before pressing the collected signatures into the dado (which was a tight fit), I glued in a ribbon bookmark. I was careful to keep the text block aligned as it was pressed into the dado. One signature didn't seat all the way down to the spine because of the tight fit, so I used a razor knife, the kind with the wide snap off blade, and slid the blade into the center of the signature (sharp side away from the fold) and pressed the fold down to the spine.<br />
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The last step was to attach the front and back cover boards with brass hinges. I used a small piece of card stock as a spacer to make sure the spacing at the top and bottom was even. Then I used an awl to mark the center of the holes, which I then pre-drilled before attaching the hinges with the brass screws.<br />
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<br />
E6000 is a very strong glue, but I wanted a little more insurance that
none of the signatures would come loose, as they are not sewn together.
So, I pre-drilled some holes along the side of the spine and into the
text block near the folds. Then I drove in 1" brass brads from both
sides. This will pin the signatures together, and pin them to the spine
block as well. A tiny drop of CA glue was added under the brad head to keep it from backing out.<br />
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<br />
And, that's it! A completed prototype of my new wooden covered book design. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I think the pine boards look very nice, especially for scrap 2x6's. I think some nice hardwood boards would look even better. I'm going to look online and try to source some nicer looking hinges too. These were just what I could find at the hardware that would fit, and weren't too expensive. I'm looking forward to making some more of these.<br />
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It occurs to me that this is the first book, or book like thing, I have made in several years. I kinda miss book binding. One thing that sucks about having so many diverse interests; you never get to spend enough time with any of them. <br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-38631680086881027652018-06-12T11:03:00.000-04:002018-06-12T11:03:17.301-04:00Laser Engraved PendantsI haven't shown much of it yet, but lately I've been working a lot with my new <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/02/have-laser-will-leave-it-sitting-on.html" target="_blank">Glowforge laser cutter/engraver</a>. I started out making rune sets, mostly. Then I realized I could make even more money from the same amount of wood and nearly the same amount of effort by taking the same rune template and replacing the individual runes with different images and symbols, stringing them on a necklace and selling them individually. At $6 a necklace (which I think is a pretty decent deal) I can make $150 from the same 25 chits of sapele wood that would make one rune set, which would normally sell for about $30. <br />
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The difference in profit more than makes up for the added materials (satin cord, jump ring and accent bead) and the added labor of stringing them together.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-36212994967212693952018-06-01T11:06:00.000-04:002018-06-02T13:26:23.137-04:00Three More WandsA few weeks ago, I got back into making a few <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/03/bibbidi-bobbidi-boo.html" target="_blank">wands on the lathe</a>. They turned out pretty good, and I was happy that I finally got to use some of <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/08/free-wood.html" target="_blank">the wood that I had been drying</a>. I wanted to capitalize on that momentum, so I cranked out a few more. <br />
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The smallest one is made from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ailanthus_altissima" target="_blank">"Tree of Heaven" (Ailanthus)</a>. It is basically considered a "junk" wood, because it has wide growth rings, contains a lot of water, and cracks and twists horribly when drying. It's also kind of a boring ugly color. Not good for much from a woodworking standpoint. But I have a bunch of it and I was eager to see how it turned. For smaller items like this, it's not too bad. Certainly usable, if not particularly pretty.<br />
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The middle one is more of that elm I worked with <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/03/bibbidi-bobbidi-boo.html" target="_blank">the other week</a>. These were some of the <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/08/free-wood.html" target="_blank">first boards I slabbed and dried</a>. It doesn't have a particularly interesting grain pattern, but it has a nice warm color and it turns well.<br />
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The bottom one is a piece of recycled oak. I'm not really thrilled with the way the handle turned out, but someone might like it.<br />
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I think I need to start doing some different designs. I feel like I'm in a rut. My wands are starting to all look the same.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-88306671904165505042018-05-22T06:54:00.001-04:002018-05-22T06:54:55.773-04:00Polymer Clay Inlaid Runes v1.0I've been making rune sets with my new laser cutter/engraver. Most of them have turned out pretty good, but there has been a learning curve.<br />
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I wanted to experiment a little bit with using some material to inlay the runes. The laser can cut the runes nice and deep, and it just seemed natural to fill that groove with something, like epoxy or polyurethane resin, or polymer clay; something that would sand smooth and make for a good inlay.<br />
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My first attempt was using brass powder mixed with polyurethane resin. This didn't work out so well. My ratio of powdered metal to resin was way off, and it didn't fill the runes as smoothly as I had hoped. It did work, but there were a few air bubbles, and it just looked like an ugly color of resin, not like brass inlay, which is what I wanted. Sorry, no pictures of this first experiment.<br />
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My second attempt was to try polymer clay (sculpey). This worked a little better, on the inlay part at least, but there were still a lot of logistical issues that made this experiment more or less a failure.<br />
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One of the harder things to get perfect with this laser cutter is registration. There is a lot of parallax distortion in the central camera. This makes it hard to line things up, like centering a rune symbol on the cut out piece of wood. The farther away from the center of the camera's field of view, the worse the error becomes. This has become a large part of the difficulty I have had with making these runes.<br />
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Because it is easier to sand and finish a plank of wood than it is to sand and finish 25 little pieces of wood, it is logical that I try to cut the runes into the plank, and then do the inlay before cutting them out. But this runs into the parallax problem. If I cut them at the same time I engrave them, the processes are relative to each other, and so they will come out fine. But if I try to engrave them, and then put them back in to cut them out later, they will never line up right again. It seems like they should, but they won't.<br />
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Anyways... I re-sawed an oak 2x4, that a friend gave me, into planks. One was about 3/16" thick and two more were about 3/8" thick. I laid out the runes in Inkskape and engraved them with my Glowforge laser cutter. I didn't cut the pieces out, as I normally would. I just engraved the runes and left them a solid plank. Then I sat down and started filling the runes with ploymer clay. <br />
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I made sure to fill the engravings completely, and let the clay mound up a bit. Then I baked it according to the instructions on the package. Then I sanded the tops smooth, getting rid of all the mounded up clay and revealing the shape of the rune.<br />
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I had watched a few videos on this technique, and they all suggested treating the clay with CA glue after it is baked and sanded. This helps to harden the clay, and it fills in any tiny cracks or gaps between the wood and the clay. Then, of course, it has to be sanded flat again.<br />
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I figured it would be easier to apply finish while the board was whole rather than to apply it to 25 little pieces, so I gave the plank a couple coats of tung oil. This turned out to not really be as good of an idea as it first appeared. Pretty pointless really, as this finish will end up being ruined/sanded off in future steps.<br />
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OK, so here comes the tricky part. In a perfect world I could just put the planks back into the laser, apply the same settings as when I engraved the runes, everything would line up perfectly, and now I could just cut the outlines to separate the pieces, right? Right. Never going to happen. I played with the settings for about 10 minutes trying to dial them in as close as I could get them, so that the image on screen overlaid the runes already engraved on the wood. Could not get them to match up for the life of me. Mind you, this is the same file that was used to engrave them in the first place. Nothing has changed. Still, I could not get them to line up perfectly. And this is on the thicker planks that stayed nice and flat. The thinner plank curled up like a potato chip when it got baked.<br />
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So I got them as close as I could, and decided to just score the outline and use that as a guide and cut them out on the band saw. The thicker planks would have been a bit hard to cut through on the laser anyway. It has limits.<br />
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The score lines were OK on some of the runes, and way off on others. No good. I couldn't even use them as guides. I ended up sanding them off. Then I tried another idea. I would use the file to cut out a template on card stock. I could then trace around where the cuts should be with a pencil after lining up the template manually. <br />
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This... sort of worked. Not really. The template wasn't perfectly spaced either (though I can think of no logical reason why it wouldn't be). And tracing around the holes was very difficult because the gaps between them were extremely thin. So I tried another trick that has served me well in the past, spray paint. A light dusting of spray paint over the template would give me a good visual guide to follow on the band saw.The results were, well... less than I had hoped for.<br />
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The paint didn't give me very crisp lines, so on the last plank, I decided to just grid off the runes with a ruler and a pencil. It could hardly be worse than what I was already dealing with.<br />
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I cut out all the pieces on the band saw, and cleaned them up and rounded over the corners on the disk sander. I also had to sand off the spray paint, which made the tung oil I had put on basically worthless. The spacing was abysmal. About 1/3 of the runes are not centered. The sizes of the chits are inconsistent, as are the shape. Overall, I give them a grade of D for quality. Total crap. But I have too much time invested in them to just throw them away (which is what I want to do), so I'll probably sell them super cheap just to recoup some of the sunk labor costs. I slathered them in lemon oil (old english) and called them done.<br />
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Total crap.<br />
<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-13243675162665197512018-05-03T12:00:00.000-04:002018-05-03T12:00:02.656-04:00Hidden TreasureLast year, I posted about my penchant for acquiring free wood to use in my wood work and turning projects. <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/08/free-wood.html" target="_blank">Because, I'm a cheap bastard, and free wood is the best wood.</a> Well, a friend of mine (yes, I have two of them) brought me some free wood that he got from his work. He is a truck driver, and he goes through a large quantity of dunnage/cribbing in his job. He says he burns a lot of it for fire wood, and asked me if I wanted some.<br />
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<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/02/bam-bam.html" target="_blank">I've gotten caches of cribbing before</a>, and it is usually old oak 4x4's. They look pretty nasty at first glance, and they do usually have a lot of cracks in them, but sometimes they will clean up nice and surprise you. My<a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/04/copper-and-oak-bowl.html" target="_blank"> copper inlaid bowl</a> was made from a piece of dunnage.<br />
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I ran a few of the smaller pieces (2x4's) through my lunch-box planer just to clean the surface up and have a look at them. My biggest surprise was that only about 1/3 of them were oak as expected. The rest were maple, and many of them were spalted or ambrosia.<br />
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The above picture doesn't do this piece of ambrosia maple justice. The coloration is really striking in person.<br />
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And this lovely piece of spalted maple was hiding inside a piece that had some nice color, but outwardly showed no signs of spalting. That is, until I decided to re-saw it into 1/4" thick planks for making runes. Now I just have to decide what to make out of it ;)<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-76992230132622529512018-04-20T12:25:00.000-04:002018-04-20T12:25:39.300-04:00Engraved Wooden Wand Case v1Hot on the heels of my recent laser engraved <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/04/here-be-demons.html" target="_blank">Goetic Seals Box</a>, I found another use for some of those pre-made wooden boxes that you find at the craft store. <br />
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This is a 7x2 inch wooden box that I have sanded and laser engraved with a design on the lid, which I had selected specifically to use in conjunction with some 6" <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=selenite&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1" target="_blank">selenite</a> wands which I carry in <a href="https://mrxdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/10/shop-book-of-shadows.html" target="_blank">my shop</a>.<br />
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After engraving, I sealed the box with two or three coats of de-waxed shellac. Then I set about trying to install a foam and cloth lining to cradle the rather fragile selenite wand.<br />
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The foam part of the lining came together very quickly. I used 2mm craft foam and positioned it in such a way that the springiness of the foam would create a soft cradle for the wand on the bottom of the box, and also a pad on the underside of the lid would apply gentle pressure to keep the wand from moving around.<br />
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The bottom foam piece was cut extra wide and the edges and center folded down to make an M shape. The sides of the box will hold the edges in place. In order to keep the center down, I glued it down to a scrap piece of chipboard that would run along the bottom under the foam.<br />
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The short ends of the box also needed some padding to protect the tips of the wand, so I cut two pieces of 2mm foam (two for each end) to tuck into the end of the box. I had to trim the M piece a little to make room for the end padding.<br />
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BTW, pay no attention to the fact that the colors of the foam change in some of these pictures. I lined more than one box and had at least one failed attempt and I just used whatever color foam I had laying around. I knew I would be covering it with cloth anyway. Each picture may not be from the same box or stage of the project.<br />
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The cushion on the lid was just a simple piece of 2mm craft foam cut a little wide so that it would bow out a little bit from the lid. This will offer some gentle pressure to keep the wand from moving around when the lid is closed.<br />
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The foam part came together quickly, but the cloth part was a pain in the ass. I ruined at least one set of foam parts experimenting with how I was going to cover it with cloth. I originally intended to use velvet, but I thought satin would be easier to work with because it is thinner, and I knew I would be tucking the excess cloth behind the edges of the foam. Sorry, it's hard to see much detail of the cloth work because it is black.<br />
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The lid was the easier of the two sides, but even that took two tries to get an acceptable, if not perfect result. The satin cloth is spray glued to the craft foam and the ends are turned under and also tacked with spray glue. The short ends were kept a little sloppy so that the excess cloth would hide the small gap created by the bowing of the foam.<br />
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Pro tip: don't use super glue with craft foam and satin cloth. It soaks through the cloth very quickly, bonds to your fingers instantly, and dries very slowly on the foam.<br />
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The bottom side was even more problematic. At least two failed attempts were made trying to cover this assembly with cloth. Again, I used spray glue to tack down the satin to the craft foam. I had to wrap the little end pads in satin separately and just tuck them in on the ends. I tried to cover them at the same time as the main piece but that didn't work out well. Even just covering the main piece had a lot of little issues that had to be worked out. Tucking things in here, folding things under there, making sure not to impede the design of the M shape of the foam. Difficult to explain, but take my word for it. There were issues.<br />
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Anyway, it all got worked out satisfactorily. The lining wasn't quit as nice or as easy to make as I had wanted it to be, but the end product is quit a bit better than the cheap pre-fab wooden box I started with. This will up the value of the selenite wands considerably.<br />
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<br />Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2040397900604412102.post-88775529606753290762018-04-09T23:33:00.000-04:002018-04-09T23:33:47.696-04:00Here Be DemonsThe <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj4mfKi3a7aAhXTqYMKHTYRDikQFjABegQIABA8&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FGoetia&usg=AOvVaw2x_D1qKxb4hIyltJvFPquS" target="_blank">Ars Goetia</a> is the first section of a 17th century grimoire known as the <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj4mfKi3a7aAhXTqYMKHTYRDikQFjAAegQIABAp&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FLesser_Key_of_Solomon&usg=AOvVaw0SDVit0J7OXDYFk6vKU5vy" target="_blank">Lesser Key of Solomon</a>. It is basically the yellow pages of conjuration. Personally, I stay away from conjuring or summoning of any kind. It's just not my bag. But for those who do, the 72 demons described in the goetia will take care of most of your needs.<br />
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I have a large collection of craft store pre-made boxes of various types and sized, and recently I decided to start purging that collection in favor of making my own better quality boxes out of nicer wood. Among those craft boxes, I found this one which looked to be the perfect size and shape to hold a collection of sigils from the Lesser Key.<br />
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The lid of the box was laser engraved with the Secret Seal of Solomon, a protection talisman. It was hand sanded and finished with about seven coats of wipe-on polyurethane (note to self: use a pre-stain sealer first next time). The first coat was tinted with a walnut stain. The cards are printed on 60 pound parchment stock, and cut apart by hand.<br />
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This project was largely economical in its purpose. I intend to sell these sets in my shop. It is also a way to get rid of some cheap wood boxes by classing them up with my new laser cutter. So, win-win.Rev. Marxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18080647865632025246noreply@blogger.com0